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Post by uli057 on Jun 10, 2019 17:25:04 GMT
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Post by vasko on Jun 11, 2019 0:41:39 GMT
Haven removed the sealant on mine - e.g no idea is there a huge space... the first bolt from the front is on the left side of the mast ..,
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Post by vasko on Jun 11, 2019 0:44:48 GMT
You can use combination of International watertite filler to rebuild the hull and underwater sealant for the space between the hull and the keel - I would not tiuch the keel bolts if all seems OK
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Post by hoppy on Jun 11, 2019 7:22:34 GMT
I'm inclined to think that the gap is not normal and I would not imagine that just filling the gap with sealant is a good solution.
Might be worth dropping the keel and refitting it if the bolts are ok.
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Post by MalcolmP on Jun 11, 2019 7:29:55 GMT
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Post by uli057 on Jun 11, 2019 8:34:40 GMT
Hello, I read Malcolm's article. But I didn't have any traces of rust, not on the outside and not inside either.
Now I will uncover the front keel bolt and check it. If there is nothing, I will seal the gap on the outside and check it every two years. Tightening the front bolt would still be an option, but only if it is made of normal steel. We leave stainless steel alone, it would probably tear off. Between hull and keel, in the gap was only rust film, so nothing dramatic. I never had water in the bilge either. If there was, then there was water because I was driving around with water in the interior...
I think my previous owner really banged something somewhere. It is now mandatory to check the keel regularly.
regards uli
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Post by MalcolmP on Jun 11, 2019 8:46:59 GMT
Hello, I read Malcolm's article. But I didn't have any traces of rust, not on the outside and not inside either.
Now I will uncover the front keel bolt and check it. If there is nothing, I will seal the gap on the outside and check it every two years. Tightening the front bolt would still be an option, but only if it is made of normal steel. We leave stainless steel alone, it would probably tear off. Between hull and keel, in the gap was only rust film, so nothing dramatic. I never had water in the bilge either. If there was, then there was water because I was driving around with water in the interior...
I think my previous owner really banged something somewhere. It is now mandatory to check the keel regularly.
regards uli
Hi I think the Jeanneaus built at the time of your SL34 were much stronger than more modern ones and providing you keep a close look on any further movement and signs of water I ingress like rust it will probably be fine. Worth getting a second opinion on the ground from a good surveyor or boatyard if you can
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Post by uli057 on Jun 11, 2019 18:50:36 GMT
hi.
The problem is that the SL34 is rear heavy, and when it stands on the trestle then the rear pushes so much ...despite bouncing sideways... on the keel which results in a gap of approx. 1.5mm at the front. Since the SL34 has no longitudinal stringers only transverse stringers this is almost normal. The Sl34 has 11 bolts, one at the front and two at the rear, the others are parallel in the middle. Today I exposed the front bolt, no rust on the threaded bolt itself, only the nut with some rust. Stress cracks are nowhere to be found in the entire bolt area. When you lift the ship, the front gap closes again, and at the same time you can see the slight movement of the hull, as the keel pulls down at the back. We fill the gap in front with Sikaflex, and when it is dry we relieve the keel, so the gasket is pressed and should be tight. That's how it was done by the factory before, nothing was filled only this sealing joint. With the next upright we support the rear additionally in the middle.
Regards Uli
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Post by uli057 on Sept 4, 2019 7:33:33 GMT
Hi. Soo, result after lifting the hull. The front seam has not changed in any way despite the keel hanging freely. It is thus a pure, as I suspect, not cleanly mounted keel on the part of the shipyard. The previous owner, I had asked again, had never run aground and had never had to open the seam so far before.
next year i check again ..
regards uli
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