TikiTime
New Member
Posts: 1
Jeanneau Model: 45DS
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Post by TikiTime on May 17, 2019 12:53:10 GMT
Does anyone have the specs, or a link to find new winch breakers for a 2012 45DS?? They are the ones on the panel in the aft stateroom on the panel across from the battery switches. Thanks for any help!!
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Post by earnric on Dec 21, 2021 14:46:18 GMT
I too am looking for these breakers... They look like this... Anyone know the name/specs? I broke the switch off the front! Maybe I can super-glue it... Rick
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talise
Full Member
Valencia until Spring.
Posts: 37
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Post by talise on Dec 21, 2021 16:07:14 GMT
Hi Both, See my post a few down. Seems like this is a recurring theme. The only off the shelf source of these appears to be Mouser in Texas. I just ordered one and it's on it way to me in the UK, they have one more in stock with 13 more due February. Click here for a link. The part number is 457-1AU0T1282013125A (Make sure you don't purchase the 100A by mistake!) However .... at more than $130 each, you might decide to take the superglue route ;-) I have no idea why Jeanneau decided to use these ridiculously expensive breakers that seem pretty unreliable anyway. I have three winches on my boat and each has it's own breaker, this is complete overkill. I won't be buying any more of these, if any more fail, I will wire them all to the same bus bar through the remaining good one. If that eventually fails, I'll replace with a Blue Sea equivalent at 1/3 the price. Edit: Read down for info on the thread sizes!! Duncan
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Post by Mistroma on Dec 21, 2021 22:15:26 GMT
It took me ages to track down a replacement for the windlass trip. Mine had failed after arcing inside, even though it was designed to minimise arcing. I replaced it with similar current rating but longer delay time before tripping. I think the original was ETA and very difficult to source in Scotland. I eventually discovered some Carling units able to fit the panel. I think it was a Carling C-series unit and the mounting holes were very, very close to same position as original ETA. It was about 9 years ago but I think one minor problem was that it on/off operation was opposite from ETA units. I seem to remember mounting it upside down to keep it the same as the original units. It was actually pretty cheap from Acorn Engineering (http://www.acornengineer.co.uk). I was replacing a 100A switch but selected a long delay version. www.acornengineer.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=Carling+C-seriesIt looks as if prices have increased by a factor of 2-3 since I bought my trip switch. I paid £29.64 incl. VAT & Del. in 2011 and think it would be about £70 now. Might still be worth considering if you have trouble sourcing an ETA unit. You should be able to work out the model you need from the codes below (Best to download Carling's manual with codes). I bought CA1 B0 34 810 6D2 C-series, panel mounted, single pole, DC long delay 100A breaker with M6 threaded studs & toggle switch. Carling C: Series A: Handle, one per pole 1: Single pole B: Series Trip (Current) 0: Without auxilliary/alarm switch 16: DC long delay (34 is also long delay both AC & DC) 810: 100A 6: Stud M6 threaded D or U: Actuator legend black with white On/Off (U is short toggle)
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Post by Mistroma on Dec 21, 2021 22:41:45 GMT
I would try a repair before replacing.
Remove the trip and carefully drill a hole in the switch and remnant of the lever. Use the tiniest drill or possibly try a red hot picture nail to get the holes. Epoxy in a pin to hold both parts together.
I have repaired other small switches in a similar fashion and they were probably as strong as the original. The trickiest part was making both holes with correct alignment to come together for an invisible repair.
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Post by earnric on Dec 22, 2021 2:38:18 GMT
Hey thanks Mistroma... that's a great idea. I didn't think superglue would hold, but with a pin I'm sure it would pretty solid. I guess if I switch off the battery at these, I should be safe taking out the breaker... I haven't done that before!!
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Post by earnric on Dec 22, 2021 2:46:38 GMT
Thanks Duncan, if I can't repair I will see if I can make one of these work! Rick Hi Both, See my post a few down. Seems like this is a recurring theme. The only off the shelf source of these appears to be Mouser in Texas. I just ordered one and it's on it way to me in the UK, they have one more in stock with 13 more due February. Click here for a link. The part number is 457-1AU0T1282013125A (Make sure you don't purchase the 100A by mistake!) However .... at more than $130 each, you might decide to take the superglue route ;-) I have no idea why Jeanneau decided to use these ridiculously expensive breakers that seem pretty unreliable anyway. I have three winches on my boat and each has it's own breaker, this is complete overkill. I won't be buying any more of these, if any more fail, I will wire them all to the same bus bar through the remaining good one. If that eventually fails, I'll replace with a Blue Sea equivalent at 1/3 the price. Duncan
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Post by Mistroma on Dec 23, 2021 1:09:20 GMT
Hey thanks Mistroma... that's a great idea. I didn't think superglue would hold, but with a pin I'm sure it would pretty solid. I guess if I switch off the battery at these, I should be safe taking out the breaker... I haven't done that before!! It should be OK with all switches off. I tend to be a bit paranoid and check anyway with a meter in case someone wired something extra in a really silly way (charger, solar etc.). Just check with a meter or even a 12V bulb & wire to confirm power does go off when isolation switches all off. Removal should be easy, just undo 2 cables on the trip, pull back and cover with insulation, then undo 2 small screws on front of panel. You will need a pretty small screwdriver for the panel screws. I've used the pin trick fairly often and drill when it's easy to work out exact position of both holes (e.g. able to drill right though one part into the next). Using a red hot pin makes a bigger hole and allows a bit of adjustment before filling excess with epoxy glue. Works well as long as the material softens with heat rather than just charring. I think I used a picture nail to make a hole last time but a tiny brass pin when gluing. The picture nail was hard and difficult to cut.
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talise
Full Member
Valencia until Spring.
Posts: 37
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Post by talise on Dec 23, 2021 21:47:28 GMT
Quick update to all on this thread and presumably lots more to come later ;-) My parcel arrived from Mouser this afternoon. The part numbers are identical, but the new one was supplied with M6 terminal bolts and the original has M10 bolts (see below) After closer examination, it turns out that the Jeanneau version has M6 to M10 adaptor sleeves fitted over the terminal bolts. If you have this issue, put two nuts onto the M10 sleeves of the faulty breaker and lock them together, then use an 17mm spanner to wind then off the old breaker and onto the new one. It goes without saying that at $120+, you shouldn't use a lot of force(!), but they will go on if you persist. The traces of some kind of locking compound on the threads *could* turn out to be the source of the high resistance issue that people have been seeing with these breakers. I'm beginning to think that I will never come to terms with the way that the French do engineering. A Gold standard German company ETA designed these to be perfectly functional at 125A with the M6 studs, but no, Jeanneau had to re-engineer them to be non standard. It's as though they have some perverted desire to ignore every globally accepted way of doing things and go the opposite way just to be awkward. Don't even get me started on the 500A / 240V mains style fuse I found on the thruster circuit which can't be found at any regular place that sells boat parts or the mirror glass that can't be replaced without destroying the panel they stuck it to with high strength impact adhesive. <rant over> n.b. the picture shows the breakers AFTER swapping over the sleeves, so the one on the left is actually the one that came out of the boat.
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Post by Mistroma on Dec 24, 2021 17:59:01 GMT
I assume the M10 option was meant to improve conductivity but sleeving M6 bolts seems a silly way to achieve it. Perhaps ETA don't give M10 as an option. I would have thought they would.
My 100A ETA unit was M6 and I replaced it with a Carling unit with M6 posts.
CA1B0168106U The 6 indicated that I wanted M6 posts. The only valid options up to 100A were Stud 1/4-20, threaded, Stud M6 threaded or 7/16” Clip Terminal. I don't think the Carling C-series went above 100A but it is sensible for a 125A unit to use M10 instead.
Glad you got the original part.
I dismantled the failed 100A unit for my windlass and could see the damage inside. It had metal protrusions meant to reduce arcing but these had obviously not worked. Repeated arcing had eaten away the contacts.
I was always careful to motor up to the chain and also avoid over-loading the winch. However, it did trip on the odd occasion. I think that the ETA had quite a short delay specification before it tripped. I examined the delay graphs on Carling and chose one with a much longer delay. It still trips at a steady 100A but can sustain a slight overload for a little longer. No repeat problem with the windlass trip since replacing it about 10 years ago and I usually spend about 6 months each year cruising, mainly at anchor.
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Post by earnric on Dec 27, 2021 15:05:53 GMT
talise, Mistroma, Thanks folks... The info is really useful as I go forward to replace/repair my own 125A winch breaker. I'll first try the repair (a la the epoxied pin method), but if I don't have luck I'll spend the $100+ to get the replacement. I'll let you know how it goes! Rick
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Post by earnric on Jan 10, 2022 22:31:02 GMT
So I drilled out my old broken switch arm, along with a very short pilot hole in the breaker... used a picture nail cut with a wire cutter, and epoxied them together. The repair feels solid. Pictures for those interested.
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