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Post by MickeyB on Feb 11, 2019 13:10:10 GMT
Hi all again. Along with the new spray dodger, the adminral has requested that I change some of the teak on the boat. I have been looking at the fake stuff, and came across this... www.amazon.co.uk/EsportsMJJ-600x2400x5mm-Marine-Flooring-Decking/dp/B074SJMR89Anyone have experience on this for seats and flooring? Unsure if suitable as it is foam? Thanks in advance, and thanks for any other recommendations. Mike
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Post by MalcolmP on Feb 11, 2019 20:14:29 GMT
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Post by Don Reaves on Feb 11, 2019 20:59:23 GMT
Many of the power boats at my marina have faux teak decks. I'm under the impression that they are thicker and stiffer than the product shown in the link. If I ever need to replace the teak on my cockpit seats, I will definitely go in that direction. I have a friend that did on an older Jeanneau that had fiberglass seats and was very happy with it.
Don
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Post by MickeyB on Feb 12, 2019 12:15:20 GMT
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Post by MickeyB on Feb 15, 2019 14:12:40 GMT
Ok - I have taken the plunge and will try this for the group!
I have ordered 4 sheets of the material (think I only need 3), and they should turn up in 3-4 weeks.
I have ordered the white backing with teak tops, beveled edges. All delivered to Malta fro 200euro.
I will document the entire process, including removing teak seats etc, and will update here during the year on progress. I am a hard user on the boat, basically living onboard from late April so it is going to be used heavily.
So, now that I have taken the plunge, what is the best way to remove the current teak on the seats etc and all the remaining gunk? I think I would like to keep them JUST in case I need to go back to it, so a non-destructive mechanism would be great.
Thanks,
Mike
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Post by MalcolmP on Feb 15, 2019 15:17:46 GMT
Hi Mike Will be interesting, please take lots of photos, will make a great future article for hints and tips www.jeanneau-owners.com/hintsandtipsindexhull.htmlGetting the old teak off so it might be reused will not be easy...if I recollect, I used to have a 34.2 the teak is set into rebated notches on the fiberglass so all is flush. On the current 39i the teak in cockpit is simply stuck onto the flush fiberglass, so stands slightly proud. I did have to entirely remove one of the panels on the 39i a couple of years ago and even though it had lifted, the Sikaflex was hard to break the seal, I kept tapping in flat scrapers, it did come off in one piece, so I was able to reuse. I think one of the oscillating multitools with a flat blade would be easier, but it will hard I think on the 34.2 because of the insert... Malcolm
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Post by MickeyB on Apr 7, 2019 9:02:53 GMT
Ok. The stuff has arrived .Looks rather good quality
So gents - how do I remove the old caulking! Its black currently on white fibreglass so I really want to remove as !such ad possible.
Guidance please!
Mike
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Post by ales on Apr 7, 2019 12:14:35 GMT
If you are removing only caulking than I suggest one of the cleaners for non-fresh silicone. I think SIka has someting in their program. Also Kent Acrysol would do the job.LINK: Kent AcrysolIf you are about to remove the teak, then as MalcomP said: multitool as Fein etx..Sand what's left, clean (acetone) and glue the new one.
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Post by snwl on Apr 7, 2019 14:16:30 GMT
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Post by MickeyB on Apr 8, 2019 6:26:32 GMT
Ok - did it by hand on Saturday as I forgot my multitool - but have it for tonight. You can clearly see the black gunge left behind, that will be a pain to remove I think!
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Post by pdodds on Apr 9, 2019 12:13:43 GMT
Question... were there any screws at all holding the planks down or was it held completely with adhesive? There is a product in Canada I saw at the spring boat show called Nuteak I am considering using as I am nearly ready for replacement as well. In demonstrations, this product was super durable... not even red wine or mustard would stain it. Their website is Nuteak
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Post by MickeyB on Apr 9, 2019 12:38:17 GMT
Ok - so first impressions, and an answer
1) There were no screws/fastenings underneath the teak. it is simply held (very well) down with the black caulking product which refuses to budge. Multi Tool tonight and some new gunk I will buy will hopefully sort it.
2) I cut a portion off, and put it into hot coffee. Also into red wine, vinegar and threw ketchup on it. Nothing stained it after 5 minutes of each. I wasn't brave enough to try the wine afterwards - what a waste.
3) It is very flexible. It easy bends to surfaces. And it cuts fairly eaisly with sharp knife and scissors. Am debating if I just cut it in place....
4) It comes with its own sticking bond already attached. Peel off the back and stick it down. I am very tempted to use this firstly as another test for the forum. If it fails, "No More Nails" should do the trick.
Still wanting more options on removing the old black stuff though gents - the more the merrier - or do you think I can just stick the new stuff on top?
Mike
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Post by ales on Apr 9, 2019 12:56:30 GMT
sand it!
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Post by MickeyB on Apr 10, 2019 11:56:02 GMT
Ok - I tried an experiment with the fake teak, I used the self adhesive on the supplied deck ontop of the original rubbed down top.
Very impressive results!
Will do a complete run through hopefully this weekend when I try to do it for real.
Mike
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Post by MalcolmP on Apr 10, 2019 19:32:22 GMT
Looking good Mike
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Post by vasko on Apr 12, 2019 19:03:22 GMT
So far so good
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Post by MalcolmP on May 5, 2019 18:05:13 GMT
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Post by MickeyB on May 7, 2019 7:41:28 GMT
That is also a nice finish! Well done, looks like it stands proud rather than mine which is recessed. Here is the latest update, just the under seat and cockpit well itself to finish! Rather pleased with the result at the moment. Am making a little video of how it all works and survives over time. Have learnt a few things doing it which I wish I knew before hand - the last few pieces are so much more professional looking. Mike
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Post by rob57 on May 7, 2019 11:37:55 GMT
Mike - question: is it pre caulked? It looked like the small piece you stuck down as a trial had no caulking. Is that right? (it's the job I like least; messy).
My boat (J43ds 2001) suffers from 'dirty' teak ie I leave black footprints all over the white topsides having stepped on the wet teak. I think it's the caulking which has degraded rather than the teak itself but am following your post with interest as ideally I need to do my whole boat!!
Thanks Robin
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Post by MickeyB on May 7, 2019 15:26:50 GMT
Dirty teak is one reason I am doing this. And yes it is pre caulked - see the mini video at the top of this thread.
Mike
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Post by billy on May 9, 2019 20:38:41 GMT
Ok - I tried an experiment with the fake teak, I used the self adhesive on the supplied deck ontop of the original rubbed down top.
Very impressive results!
Will do a complete run through hopefully this weekend when I try to do it for real.
Mike The Teak seems to not have any Black caulking? Do you have to add this seperately?
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Post by vasko on May 10, 2019 4:29:34 GMT
Lucky for me the teak in my cockpit is just teak slas screwed to the hull and when I decide finally to change it, I just need teak slas cut to the rught size images.app.goo.gl/42NxSrHTdQm6p6kA8
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Post by petergriffin on May 20, 2019 23:27:53 GMT
Mike - can you tell me the thickness of the old teak you have removed? I am thinking about replacing my teak as well and want to make sure the thickness of the material to be used at least matches the thickness of the old teak so its either flush or a bit higher than the inset of the decking/seats where the teak was removed from.
Thanks
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Post by rudds67 on May 21, 2019 2:03:59 GMT
If you need to make a wide section over 8 foot wide : rear swim deck on 44i sun odyssey. Do the edges link together in the preroll sheets ? Thanks Steve
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Post by MickeyB on May 21, 2019 6:41:02 GMT
Hey. The exact thickness escapes me as I didn't measure it I am afraid, BUT the thickness of the new matting is maybe 1-2mm lower than the seat recess, and that is maximum. It may be even less, and the new matting is 6mm thick. So I would guestimate that the teak is 6-7mm and then the caulking underneath. But that is a guess. The width, the roll comes in different widths. For my swim platform I had to join two pieces which was honestly childs play. The thought of doing it far far outwieghed the actual process. Here is a picture of a rather dirty swim platform. You cannot see the join, but it is smack bang in the middle. Note that I tried hard to make sure all the white lines kind of joined up the whole way along. (Experiment - the above is a public image on facebook - I wonder if we can use that as a hosting platform!!!) You ensure the edges of both pieces are cut so that ONE of them has the white strip and the other doesn't. Then join on the deck. That's it. Mike
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