SO32 toerail removal

[mikebz]

I need to remove the aft section of toerail on one side. All the fastenings came out easily enough but it appears to have been put on with some kind of mastic or sealant - it won't budge.  It's hard to get a good swing at it with a hammer and I fear causing damage with that approach (the toerail is being replaced so it doesn't matter too much if I damage that although it would preferable not to wreck it completely).  Has anyone done this in the past?   The only thing I can think of trying is applying heat to the metal with a blowtorch - very carefully!

[MalcolmP]

Mike

I would suggest trying a oscillating multi-tool cutter. Don't like the idea of naked heat, maybe a heat gun would help...Do take some images please how it goes, would be a good project for a short write up in Hints and Tips. Good luck

[mikebz]

I don't think there is a gap to get any sort of tool or blade in between the deck and the rail.

[martini70]

There could be some screws into the hull from the side also. Thats how it is on my SO 34,2 from 2000.
They are placed under the white plastic splint that is interposted on the outside of the toerail.

[mikebz]

That's interesting.  The toerail on the 32 has a teak insert, maybe there are screws under there - that will be a challenge since it looks as though the teak needs to be inserted before the toerail is fitted.

Actually I've just realised that all I need to do is look at the new length of toerail and see if it has any screw holes behind the channel where the insert goes, doh!

I think the big problem is going to be the mastic/sealant, which will be near-impossible to overcome in shear (hence wondering whether heating the toerail to soften/melt the mastic might help).

[Don Reaves]

3M makes products to break down the bond on their sealants, making them much easier to remove. The trick, I suppose, it figuring out which one to use. I would recommend investigating this in order to avoid doing damage to your boat.

Don

[MalcolmP]

This video, from one of my favourite DIY guys  who is rebuilding a Warrior 38 shows how he lifts up a sealed hatch using a scrapper attachment on an oscillating tool (OK it falls out a few times...) then uses a cabinet scraper, I think you might be able to do something similar on the toe-rail.  Also just check to see if there are any drain scuppers at any point under the toe-rail, I think I recollect some where on my previous 34.2, these might well allow a lever to be inserted, obviously protect the deck with some ply too, when using levers...

[mikebz]

Thanks for all the hints & tips.  I'll let you know how it goes.

[lesknowles]

Good afternoon 
I’ve got a Jeanneau 35 which has the same toe rail section. Could you tell me where you purchased the replacement section and was it just removing the self tapping screws and breaking the sealant bond.

Regards Les Knowles

[MalcolmP]

Aug 14, 2022 16:22:23 GMT lesknowles said:

Good afternoon 
I’ve got a Jeanneau 35 which has the same toe rail section. Could you tell me where you purchased the replacement section and was it just removing the self tapping screws and breaking the sealant bond.

Regards Les Knowles

Clarke and Carter used to have some in one of their containers. Give them a call, you may be in luck 01473 659681

[knotsmart]

 mike
i will be executing this task and will be paying very close attention to how this goes. I agree with reservations with the banging although there maybe some banging required. I think maybe get a piece of wood 2x4 or 3/4 ply place it on the deck to distribute the load a bit and then place a car jack on that. get a couple of tow straps with hooks , (my toe rail has holes) put the hook in the holes, loop the strap over the jack and pump the jack up.. i judgement will have to be made to not blow the deck out.. 


or maybe even better.. new technology.. the lever.. throw a 2x4 on the deck,  have someone hold a 3ft piece of 2x4 on top of that upright and then another 8ft on top of that perpendicular overhanging 6" .. use the straps to get the lengths just right .. and then push down on the end of the 8 footer

 when i received the incorrect side and damaged in shipping toe rails from jeanneau (im not mad at all) i made a point to look .. there are no screws going in from the side under the teak    

mine definitely has a bead of silicone at the bottom edge of the rail where it touches the hull .. it would be helpful to score that with a utility knife 

while and after removing the stanchion bases and the cleats i did not see any fasteners of any kind going up from the interior.. only the screws going down from the exterior and the couple i tried came out real easy as well..

i did receive from jeanneau 1/4" foam (approx) with adhesive on both sides that i was to sandwich in between the deck and the rail upon reinstallation 

i didnt consider inserting the teak before installation .. i think thats a good idea.. 

jay

[mikebz]

Aug 14, 2022 16:22:23 GMT lesknowles said:

Good afternoon 
I’ve got a Jeanneau 35 which has the same toe rail section. Could you tell me where you purchased the replacement section and was it just removing the self tapping screws and breaking the sealant bond.

Regards Les Knowles

Hi Les,  I bought the new section of toerail and teak insert through Clarke & Carter in Burnham-on-Crouch, they are Jeanneau dealers and spares outlet - the contact is Ian Scott <[e-mail]>.

I took all the self tappers out and tried everything in my power to lever it off.  Eventually gave up and got a yard to do it - there was no way it was coming off intact.  It was a mangled mess by the time they got it off.  I don't know why Jeanneau stick it on with a powerful adhesive, it's just daft - all it needs is a sealant.

[mikebz]

Aug 15, 2022 8:46:52 GMT knotsmart said:

 mike
... 
or maybe even better.. new technology.. the lever.. throw a 2x4 on the deck,  have someone hold a 3ft piece of 2x4 on top of that upright and then another 8ft on top of that perpendicular overhanging 6" .. use the straps to get the lengths just right .. and then push down on the end of the 8 footer
...

Our toerail doesn't have holes. I did make a long lever out of 2 bits of 2x4 which slotted over the toerail, but pulling on the lever just mangled the 2x4 instead of moving the toerail.  It was really bonded on - it was twisted and mangled by the time the yard got it off, they weren't impressed!  Hopefully yours won't be as hard.

[dbostrom]

It's too late for the toerail in question but I'll second Malcolm's suggestion on the multitool above, for anybody coming along later. It's possible to remove parts like this with complete surgical precision, and to deal with any missed and hidden fasteners that might crop up (at the cost of a blade swap, perhaps).

In our case, removing teak strips from transom on 39i, defeating corroded cabinetry attachments, some other high-risk operations where a slip-up leads to catastrophe. It's hard to appreciate the controllabillity of these tools without encountering actual battle conditions. 

I'd go as far as to say this tool should be on the shelf alongside other basics such as a chopsaw, drill motor etc.

[knotsmart]

Aug 15, 2022 18:58:13 GMT mikebz said:

Aug 15, 2022 8:46:52 GMT knotsmart said:

 mike
...  but pulling on the lever just mangled the 2x4 instead of moving the toerail.  It was really bonded on - it was twisted and mangled by the time the yard got it off, they weren't impressed!  Hopefully yours won't be as hard.

im laughing at the part that the 2x4 got mangled ... but thats only because i want to cry because i know it will be equally as bad