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Post by hoppy on Oct 13, 2017 4:30:43 GMT
Just got a quote for the first engine service since landing in Aus...
$837.35aud... $655usd, £494 €553
They must be taking the piss.
Engine: 4JH3E ser #E25134
Drive: ***RECORD***
primary filter: *** ADVISE ***
ENG - Service engine/s as per annual requirements.
Replace service parts as per below list.
Perform 25 point check / adjustment of engine
components, accessories and common problem parts
1 LAB Labour, annual engine service fixed rate $528.00 $528.00
6 OILSAE30 Yanmar Oil $8.50 $51.00
1 129150-35170 Oil Filter JH $28.10 $28.10
1 CAV CAV Primary Fuel Filter **** ADVISE CORRECT**** $16.95 $16.95
1 129470-55810 Fuel Filter JH $35.00 $35.00
1 1027B Johnson Impeller $77.00 $77.00
1 121850-42280 Belt-V *If Required $43.80 $43.80
1 COOLTEST Coolant Test $12.00 $12.00
1 Cons Consumables/ Environmental Levy $33.00 $33.00
1 SVSRMYS Service vehicle surcharge 25km $12.50 $12.50
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Post by so36idavid on Oct 13, 2017 5:56:45 GMT
Hoppy, In terms of labor, you can totally do all of those things all yourself, look on Youtube for instruction. Don't forget to charge yourself the vehicle surcharge! If you aren't sure how then it might make sense to have the pros do it while you look over their shoulders so that you'll know how to do it next time. As for the parts bill, $77 for an impeller, $43 for a belt? Are they quoting in Zimbabwe dollars  ? I'm not sure what the 25 point check is but if it's a Yanmar I recommend looking carefully at the exhaust elbow. Any sign of rust or pitting and that thing needs to come out. Something else you can do yourself. David |
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Post by vasko on Oct 13, 2017 6:04:46 GMT
Guys you are eighter really rich or you are very busy  my budget for yearly service of the engine is about 70EUR ... this includes everything hoppy stated and injectors cleaned. Last year with ultrasound ... |
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Post by hoppy on Oct 13, 2017 11:30:29 GMT
Hoppy, In terms of labor, you can totally do all of those things all yourself, look on Youtube for instruction. Don't forget to charge yourself the vehicle surcharge! If you aren't sure how then it might make sense to have the pros do it while you look over their shoulders so that you'll know how to do it next time. As for the parts bill, $77 for an impeller, $43 for a belt? Are they quoting in Zimbabwe dollars ? I'm not sure what the 25 point check is but if it's a Yanmar I recommend looking carefully at the exhaust elbow. Any sign of rust or pitting and that thing needs to come out. Something else you can do yourself. David I hadn't thought about the parts prices. The $528 for labour floored me... Time to buy one of those oil changing vacuum things and buy the parts and do it myself. When I was still in Greece planning my "big trip" I was given a rundown of how to do the service, so now I will put that knowledge and youtube to good use. Is it worth buying an impeller puller or should I just use screw drivers? |
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Post by vasko on Oct 13, 2017 11:42:18 GMT
Hoppy, In terms of labor, you can totally do all of those things all yourself, look on Youtube for instruction. Don't forget to charge yourself the vehicle surcharge! If you aren't sure how then it might make sense to have the pros do it while you look over their shoulders so that you'll know how to do it next time. As for the parts bill, $77 for an impeller, $43 for a belt? Are they quoting in Zimbabwe dollars ? I'm not sure what the 25 point check is but if it's a Yanmar I recommend looking carefully at the exhaust elbow. Any sign of rust or pitting and that thing needs to come out. Something else you can do yourself. David I hadn't thought about the parts prices. The $528 for labour floored me... Time to buy one of those oil changing vacuum things and buy the parts and do it myself. When I was still in Greece planning my "big trip" I was given a rundown of how to do the service, so now I will put that knowledge and youtube to good use. Is it worth buying an impeller puller or should I just use screw drivers? Never had issues with takeing out the old impeller with screwdriver and plyers... btw if you haven't done full service to your raw water pump in the last 3-4 years it is worth do a whole service and change bearings , o-rings and brass ring/plate behind the impellor... ( the volvo full kit was about £75) but if you buy it based on parts actual sizes and model can go down to may be £10 - £15:) same with fuel and oil filters... |
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Post by vasko on Oct 13, 2017 11:48:48 GMT
re : engine oil - the oil usually has two numbers e.g 15W40 - first number is the thunkness of teh oil whne cold - second whne hot
e.g. as lower the first it is better - but do not get oil with different second number e.g better put 5w40 then 15w40 , but never put 5w30 for example as you engine will start leaking or consuming oil
in my case my oil need to be 15w40 per manifactiore spec - I put 5W40 fully sythetic TOTAL ( about 25 EUR 5 L) and the engine starts and runs better then 15w40
Total QUARTZ 9000 5W-40 5L - £21
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Post by so36idavid on Oct 13, 2017 15:06:08 GMT
Time to buy one of those oil changing vacuum things and buy the parts and do it myself. When I was still in Greece planning my "big trip" I was given a rundown of how to do the service, so now I will put that knowledge and youtube to good use. Is it worth buying an impeller puller or should I just use screw drivers? I use one of these drill mounted pumps. I keep one or two empty oil containers on hand and the used oil goes in there and straight to recycling. I use screw drivers to start it coming out, but be very careful to not damage the pump housing. Once it's started I grab it with vice grips. David |
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Post by vasko on Oct 13, 2017 15:19:08 GMT
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Post by Damir on Oct 13, 2017 18:46:53 GMT
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Post by Don Reaves on Oct 13, 2017 20:24:38 GMT
re : engine oil - the oil usually has two numbers e.g 15W40 - first number is the thunkness of teh oil whne cold - second whne hot e.g. as lower the first it is better - but do not get oil with different second number e.g better put 5w40 then 15w40 , but never put 5w30 for example as you engine will start leaking or consuming oil in my case my oil need to be 15w40 per manifactiore spec - I put 5W40 fully sythetic TOTAL ( about 25 EUR 5 L) and the engine starts and runs better then 15w40 Total QUARTZ 9000 5W-40 5L - £21 In addition to the two oil weight numbers Vasko mentioned, you also need to get oil properly rated for your diesel engine. Your engine manual will probably give you the information you need, though my manual is old enough that it specifies the grade using an old rating system. See the threads Yanmar 4JH3-HTE Oil API and Yanmar 4JH3E Oil Consumption for further information. Don |
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Post by heatherina on Oct 14, 2017 3:16:03 GMT
Labour price does seem a bit steep. Mind you, we have spent several days in Australia recently and everything seems expensive.
Buy a vacuum pump, oil filter socket and an impeller extraction tool, (don't use screwdrivers), save the old impeller as an emergency spare. Do it yourself. Our 4JH45 came with the impeller tool in the tool kit. Even better idea is to buy a "Speedseal life" kit.
Most importantly use the oil that Yanmar recommend, viscosity and spec. They make the engines so should know what oil to put in them. Personally I always use Yanmar oil.
Best of luck.
Ian |
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Post by vasko on Oct 14, 2017 3:56:48 GMT
re : engine oil - the oil usually has two numbers e.g 15W40 - first number is the thunkness of teh oil whne cold - second whne hot e.g. as lower the first it is better - but do not get oil with different second number e.g better put 5w40 then 15w40 , but never put 5w30 for example as you engine will start leaking or consuming oil in my case my oil need to be 15w40 per manifactiore spec - I put 5W40 fully sythetic TOTAL ( about 25 EUR 5 L) and the engine starts and runs better then 15w40 Total QUARTZ 9000 5W-40 5L - £21 In addition to the two oil weight numbers Vasko mentioned, you also need to get oil properly rated for your diesel engine. Your engine manual will probably give you the information you need, though my manual is old enough that it specifies the grade using an old rating system. See the threads Yanmar 4JH3-HTE Oil API and Yanmar 4JH3E Oil Consumption for further information. Don My engine is quite old - VP 2003 on 1900hrs ... still do not consume any oil - e.g. no need to top up the oil during the season ... and engine is working hard - I love overpropping - changed from 16x12 to 17x13 prop... the original oil spec for the egine is very outdated - hence volvo is suggesting just to use 15w40 for my engine ... I give a try with 5w40 this season and I'm very - very happy with the result - starts easy ( I do not have glow plugs on my engine by design) and work smoother.. |
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Post by MartyB on Oct 15, 2017 4:37:42 GMT
Generally speaking on the oil, get the latest grade, IIRC CJ is latest. C followed by a letter, At least here in states......My Yanmar is so blinking old, it specs a grade a or b, J or maybe K is latest version out. I use that for my Yanmar in boat, an 85, 92 International dumptruck, 96 Trackhoe with a 3 cylinder turbo Yanmar, 16hp just like boat, 99 bobcat with Kubota, and now gone 96 and 05 GM pickups with diesels........
As far as costs go, locally where I am in the US, ie land of Microsoft, Google and Amazon HQ, if I hunt around, I can find things for 50% listed, 25-35 is pretty easy.
I like the manual pumps to do the oil. I find the drill pumps never work!
Marty
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Post by alenka on Oct 15, 2017 8:07:37 GMT
I have been told by several engineers never to use synthetic oil in a Yanmar.
A good quality 15w40 from the local petrol station is as good as anything and generally nothing like the cost of branded oil from the chandlers.
Just be careful when you remove the impeller. We had one engineer damage the threads and the whole pump had to come off, which meant taking the engine off the rear mounts to gain proper access.
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Post by manaia on Oct 15, 2017 20:08:38 GMT
We have the same engine (4JH3E) and use Yanmar brand 30 grade oil as the manual states. I buy it in 20 litre containers for approx nzd$200, Because we use the boat a lot, I do two or three oil/filter changes per year so the saving on shop labour is significant.
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Post by j24sailor on Oct 16, 2017 5:45:20 GMT
Just got a quote for the first engine service since landing in Aus... $837.35aud... $655usd, £494 €553 They must be taking the piss. Engine: 4JH3E ser #E25134 Drive: ***RECORD*** primary filter: *** ADVISE *** ENG - Service engine/s as per annual requirements. Replace service parts as per below list. Perform 25 point check / adjustment of engine components, accessories and common problem parts 1 LAB Labour, annual engine service fixed rate $528.00 $528.00 6 OILSAE30 Yanmar Oil $8.50 $51.00 1 129150-35170 Oil Filter JH $28.10 $28.10 1 CAV CAV Primary Fuel Filter **** ADVISE CORRECT**** $16.95 $16.95 1 129470-55810 Fuel Filter JH $35.00 $35.00 1 1027B Johnson Impeller $77.00 $77.00 1 121850-42280 Belt-V *If Required $43.80 $43.80 1 COOLTEST Coolant Test $12.00 $12.00 1 Cons Consumables/ Environmental Levy $33.00 $33.00 1 SVSRMYS Service vehicle surcharge 25km $12.50 $12.50 They are taking the piss, that is too much for labour. We actually just changed the filters and oil ourselves for the first time today and you could easily do it yourself. While we took a lot longer than a professional and one of our white coloured dogs now looks like a dalmation due to an oil spill, we are still talking to each other. As far as the impeller puller goes, it is probably worth it over the next twenty years. The parts prices are about what I am paying. This is a two hour job which even at $100/hr is only $200. I am sure you can do it yourself. |
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Post by alenka on Oct 18, 2017 18:12:26 GMT
Just got a quote for the first engine service since landing in Aus... $837.35aud... $655usd, £494 €553 They must be taking the piss. Engine: 4JH3E ser #E25134 Drive: ***RECORD*** primary filter: *** ADVISE *** ENG - Service engine/s as per annual requirements. Replace service parts as per below list. Perform 25 point check / adjustment of engine components, accessories and common problem parts 1 LAB Labour, annual engine service fixed rate $528.00 $528.00 6 OILSAE30 Yanmar Oil $8.50 $51.00 1 129150-35170 Oil Filter JH $28.10 $28.10 1 CAV CAV Primary Fuel Filter **** ADVISE CORRECT**** $16.95 $16.95 1 129470-55810 Fuel Filter JH $35.00 $35.00 1 1027B Johnson Impeller $77.00 $77.00 1 121850-42280 Belt-V *If Required $43.80 $43.80 1 COOLTEST Coolant Test $12.00 $12.00 1 Cons Consumables/ Environmental Levy $33.00 $33.00 1 SVSRMYS Service vehicle surcharge 25km $12.50 $12.50 They are taking the piss, that is too much for labour. We actually just changed the filters and oil ourselves for the first time today and you could easily do it yourself. While we took a lot longer than a professional and one of our white coloured dogs now looks like a dalmation due to an oil spill, we are still talking to each other. As far as the impeller puller goes, it is probably worth it over the next twenty years. The parts prices are about what I am paying. This is a two hour job which even at $100/hr is only $200. I am sure you can do it yourself. Hoppy are these Aus $? In which case that works out at around £300 or €350. I seem to remember we used to pay around £40 ph in the Uk and €40 ph in Greece. I would think most would allow 3-4 hours for a service including disposal of old oils, etc. Are they charging you for travelling to the boat? That often happens in this part of Greece - they charge you the same hourly rate for driving to and from a job. |
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Post by alenka on Oct 18, 2017 18:15:18 GMT
Oopps. Sorry misread one of the replies. See you have quoted prices in all currencies.
Would suggest you do a diesel maintenance course, costs around £100 in the UK, and do your own.
It is not that difficult.
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Post by hoppy on Oct 18, 2017 21:57:18 GMT
I don't remember what I paid in Greece but travel was not charged as the guys were either based in the marinas or just outside of the gate ;-)
My uncle just told me that the guy who used to service his Beneteau 405 in the early nineties is still around doing the service odd job (he's 80). Will get a price from him.
Servicing seems easy enough to do but just now, with a big DIY reno project going on in the backyard and other things, I don't have the time and if I can get a reasonable price from the old guy, I'll pay rather than make the time.
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Post by vasko on Oct 19, 2017 3:30:09 GMT
I was really happy with soda blastic that was used to clean mt hull - price was also reasonable - 800eur , if I need to do it myself I will buy a cheap blasting machine and compressor. .., Cleaning the hull to gelcoat usually always leds to gelcoat damage - hence need a epoxy layer or at least a good primer as a bare minimum - as if not you will be on fast track to osmosis I will get out of the water my boat in a week time and will have a better view how coppercoat has performed ... |
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Post by saltymetals on Nov 19, 2018 23:15:05 GMT
I realise this thread is about a year since last comment but the subject is inline with my question and i have been unable to find a more recent relevant thread. I have the Yanmar 4JH3-TE with the KM4A gearbox in a 2004 43ds. Engine has now done 1,700 hrs and is doing fine and uses practically zero oil but my question relates to the choice of oil for the gearbox.
The Yanmar manual says 15W40 for the engine ( I noted Vasko's comments about 5W40 being a possibility but i will stick to 15W40 since most of my use is in the Med or similar lattitudes/temeratures). However, what about the gearbox? The Yanmar manual (2004) that came with the boat says SAE 20 or 30 for the gearbox but the up-to-date online manual for the gearbox says "same as engine". So should i be putting 15W40 in the gearbox or SAE30? Or does it not make any difference?
Andrew
"Genial Bee"
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Post by so36idavid on Nov 22, 2018 3:10:20 GMT
I would go with the manual that came with your engine.
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Post by j24sailor on Dec 20, 2018 5:56:28 GMT
I realise this thread is about a year since last comment but the subject is inline with my question and i have been unable to find a more recent relevant thread. I have the Yanmar 4JH3-TE with the KM4A gearbox in a 2004 43ds. Engine has now done 1,700 hrs and is doing fine and uses practically zero oil but my question relates to the choice of oil for the gearbox. The Yanmar manual says 15W40 for the engine ( I noted Vasko's comments about 5W40 being a possibility but i will stick to 15W40 since most of my use is in the Med or similar lattitudes/temeratures). However, what about the gearbox? The Yanmar manual (2004) that came with the boat says SAE 20 or 30 for the gearbox but the up-to-date online manual for the gearbox says "same as engine". So should i be putting 15W40 in the gearbox or SAE30? Or does it not make any difference? Andrew "Genial Bee" I agree, go with the original engine manual and use SAE30. James |
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Post by vasko on Dec 20, 2018 7:35:39 GMT
In theory SAE30 should be equal to 30W30 but in practive a lot of manifacturers label SAE30 on 15W30 oil.
In practice any oil which has second number 30 will be good for SAE30 mark engine/box
e.g 0w30, 5w30, 10w30,15w30 etc to 30w30
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? 
my budget for yearly service of the engine is about 70EUR ... this includes everything hoppy stated and injectors cleaned. Last year with ultrasound ...
