The Wychard Gybe Easy fitted to our 42 DS does not appear to be fitted as recommended by Wychard. The control Gybeflex line is tied off at the pad eye next to the Port shroud and it is redirected to the cabin top using a block attached to the pad eye next to the Starboard shroud. With the current arrangement it is not possible to release the tension on the side that is tied off, making it difficult to tack.
Wychard’s instructions show that either both ends should go back to a clutch/winch, or that the Gybeflex line should be fixed at both ends and the Gybe Easy be tensioned from a single point via a block attached to the boom. I don’t appear to have enough space on the Port cabin top for another clutch, and I can’t quite work out a way to run a line to the boom for single tensioning line via a block. There doesn’t appear to be an easy pathway past the mainsheet (which has three separate blocks on the boom).
Does anyone have any experience/guidance they could share?
We use a Wichard Gybe Easy. It is attached to the boom eye via a Dynema connector to eliminate the rattle at anchor. The line goes through the necessary loops and connects pad eye on the port & starboard deck with a snatch block, then tied fast on the aft cleat with proper tension. The line supplied by Wichard is shorter that needed for our boat. When I complained the Wichard at a recent boat show, they stated they knew of the problem, but offer no remedy except to purchase rock climbing line at REI of a similar diameter...which I did. It works well now.
Thanks Brent. I really appreciate your help. I hadn't even thought about bringing the lines aft. Are you tightening/releasing by hand using just the cleats or do you need to use the primary winches to get the right tension? Wayne
Thanks so much. That's a brilliant solution. I was looking for something that was way too complicated. Now I just need to find the right climbing line (and get another snatch block) and I'll be in business.
I am trying to improve the safety of our our Wichard Gybe Easy by moving the blocks near the shrouds (to take away the tripping hazard) and by fitting a clutch or cam cleat at each helm for quick actuation and release.
The options appear to be to move the block to the base of the inner shroud or to move it to a padeye fitting on the top end of the genoa track (see photo).
I’d really appreciate any input anyone has about this.
My concerns are:
Would a block attachment to the inner shroud apply too much side strain? The design of the fittings does not make it easy to keep the attachment as close as possible to the deck.
Does anyone know what size genoa track is fitted to a 2007 Sun Odyssey 42ds? I think this is probably a Harken T Track.
Would a cam cleat like the Harken Standard Cam Matic Kit (with quick release fairlead) be sufficient (ie. would it handle the load) or should I look to add clutches at each helm?
This is what I ended up doing to the Gybe-flex tensioning line. It’s very easy to both deploy and release from the helms and I’m very happy with how this controlled the boom while gybing.
I used the published figures from Wichard’s installation booklet for the load on the turning blocks. Then applied the load factor (for the angle of turn) to determine the load requirements of the fiddle blocks.
I believed that I needed the turning blocks as close to the toe rails as possible when in use, but using a block with a built in clip it’s very easy to temporarily relocate the turning blocks to the inner shrouds to clear the walkways.