|
|
Post by georgia on Feb 13, 2017 23:31:16 GMT
So first, I've been digging around on my Jeanneau 39i. I have a tiny amount of water in the bilge. lets start with specific location. opening up the floor board amidship near the nav station there is a tiny amount of water ( like 1/8 cup of water in 24 hours ). so my questions:
1. Is this normal? does the 39i have any inherent "leaks" like the stuffing box, seeping thruhulls fittings, refrigerator condensation, fresh water lines ?
2. Any thoughts on where this might be coming from ?
3. any thought on keeping the bilge as dry as possible ?
the other issue is around the center wells in each of the 39i's bilge areas. Each "area" has a 1/4" to 1/2" lower center section in the bilge areas... I'm seeing a very small amount of "lifting" from a couple spots on the inside fiberglass coating. I'd like to do a layer of epoxy resin in these wells to keep them safe. Is this an issue I should worry about.
My keel bolts are a bit rusted ( i'm assuming from water in the bilge ) and i'm going to coat them in rustolium and then a layer of Flex seal... is this a good idea or a bad idea to protect the keel bolts in this manner....
I appreciate any help or thoughts
cheers
georgia
|
|
|
|
Post by triquerta on Feb 13, 2017 23:53:31 GMT
From research on the site, I found the source of water in my bilge. Fortunately nothing major but still a pain.
The source? The hot water pressure relief valve not seating properly and when the pressure system is on, it bleeds water into the drain hose and you guessed it, down into the bilge near the cutlass bearing. I contacted the supplier, not good news. The new pressure relief valve plus a spare element will be more than scrapping the entire tank.
Just a suggestion, check your drain hose.
Triquerta
|
|
|
|
Post by vsergio on Feb 14, 2017 3:46:32 GMT
My keel bolts are a bit rusted ( i'm assuming from water in the bilge ) and i'm going to coat them in rustolium and then a layer of Flex seal... is this a good idea or a bad idea to protect the keel bolts in this manner.... I appreciate any help or thoughts cheers georgia Before you protect the keel bolts try to find the source of the leak(s). Sometimes, his may take longer than you would expect. Rustoleum and Flex seal, terrible idea, however suggested it. You will incubate corrosion and will end up damaging the bolts to the point that you will need to drop the keel and replace them This is if you plan to keep the boat for a few years. |
|
|
|
Post by so36idavid on Feb 14, 2017 6:26:27 GMT
Leaks are not normal, the bilges should be bone dry. If it's salty then it's probably coming from under your stuffing box. There's a pipe that connects the space aft of the engine to the bilge and that's where it empties out. Or at least that's how it is on a 36i. It's also possible that it's the thru-hulls for the sink drain and head. If it's fresh then it's a lot more complicated. How fast does the water come in? If you dry it and leave the boat with the pressure water turned off, is it wet when you return? What if it doesn't rain? It may be rain water getting in there from pretty much anywhere on the boat  . Assuming that you rule out rain water then if the water is fresh then it's probably coming from a leak around either the water heater or galley sink plumbing. It may also be coming from the head sink plumbing. David |
|
|
|
Post by ianqv on Feb 14, 2017 7:15:16 GMT
From research on the site, I found the source of water in my bilge. Fortunately nothing major but still a pain. The source? The hot water pressure relief valve not seating properly and when the pressure system is on, it bleeds water into the drain hose and you guessed it, down into the bilge near the cutlass bearing. I contacted the supplier, not good news. The new pressure relief valve plus a spare element will be more than scrapping the entire tank. Just a suggestion, check your drain hose. Triquerta Triquerta Quick question.... does your relief valve only drip when the water is hot? or does it drip all the time? If it drips all the time - then your are correct in your thoughts of the valve not seating correctly and needs replacing. However, if it only drips when the water is hot. It is more than likely your accumulator just needs resetting (the air cushion has been absorbed). Depending on what type of accumulator you have will depend on how you reset it. Just type the model number into Googles and that'll tell you. Hope this helps Cheers Ian |
|
|
|
Post by vasko on Feb 14, 2017 7:37:00 GMT
my bilges are designed to be wet - bolts are glassed and painter there and one of the bilges is actually a grey water box that collects the grey water from the two heads ... my aircon condensing water also goes in the bilge.... in brief my central bilges are always wet
|
|
|
|
Post by alenka on Feb 14, 2017 9:10:11 GMT
The bilge on our 43DS is always a little wet. Mainly because the aircon condensate drains into it and is then pumped overboard by the bilge pump. I seem to remember the fridge(s) also drain into it when the bungs are not in place.
Another source of water comes from changing the speed paddle wheel over to the blank and back again. Something we always do when the boat is left for a few weeks without use.
In the forward cabin to the port side is a small area that does not drain into the bilge and two seasons ago this was found to be full of fresh water. Maybe 10-15Lts. The source was a bad connection of the shower head onto the pipe in the forward loo. In its normal place the trickle of leaking water could not be seen, but clearly it was running down the pipe and into this non-draining area beneath the cabin floor.
With the 43DS (like some other Jeanneaus) it is important to keep the area around the mast step dry because the mast sits on a block of wood. In numerous cases water has found its way through the glass fibre encapsulation and over time rots this vital piece of wood! It is not catastrophic but it is a repair of around 2,500€.
Throw away baby nappies are great for soaking up water and keeping bilges dry and clean. Something we do on a regular basis if for no other reason both to monitor what is happening and to prevent smells developing.
|
|
|
|
Post by georgia on Feb 14, 2017 13:58:30 GMT
thanks guys, excellent suggestions... I'll be digging around again today! - so instead of rustolium and flexseal... should I use an epoxy resin to coat them.. I really want to stem any more rust on the bolts. planning on keeping the for at least 5 more years and I don't want to have to pull the keel and replace the bolts... ugh.
|
|
|
|
Post by sleighride on Feb 14, 2017 15:41:11 GMT
I always have a small amount of fresh water in bilge during winter when I do not use the boat because of an electric dehumidifier. The dehumidifier drips water into the bilge where it is then automatically pumped overboard by the auto bilge pump switch. I have a cycle counter so that I always know how often the pump is discharging. This creates moisture below floor boards in addition to normal condensation below water line which will leave minor rust on keel bolts. I spray all keel boats once per year with WD40 and then towel them off with paper towel. This keeps bolts from rusting and in good condition if I ever need to drop keel in the future.
|
|
|
|
Post by sunnydayz on Feb 15, 2017 14:43:54 GMT
Bone dry!
For the first time since we have owned the yacht.
Watermaker leaked
Leak around stanchion post
Leak from poorly fitted staysail deck mount
Leak from exhaust muffler
Leak from stern gland
Leak from generator water pump
Leak form poorly fitting gasket around generator locker
Drove us potty tracking each one down!
Steve
|
|
|
|
Post by georgia on Feb 15, 2017 20:51:21 GMT
good news, bad news. good news its not fresh water so that removes a million little niggly things. bad news, the boat has a leak somewhere however small. next step , check every thruhull point.
|
|
|
|
Post by so36idavid on Feb 15, 2017 21:17:23 GMT
Check under the stuffing box, aft of the engine compartment.
|
|
|
|
Post by vasko on Feb 16, 2017 6:54:39 GMT
Check under the stuffing box, aft of the engine compartment. actually start from the engine and check every cm from the exhaust pipe , muffer and continue to the point where the exhaust pipe connect to a truhull Also take a look at the sea water pump Is the leak present itself when sailing or motoring or at the berth ? |
|
|
|
Post by georgia on Feb 23, 2017 0:58:45 GMT
update: I dried out the offending bilge wells, and for 5 days at dock, bone dry. First rain we had was today and about a cup of water in back in the bilge. In the mean time its not the fresh water system or water heater, or any seacocks. So, 2 issues, i'm willing to be the stuffing box leaks a bit under power, and two, I have a leak on the deck somewhere.
So, does anyone know any "typical" leak points around the deck to start looking? I'm planning on going around all the windows, hatches, rigging, thru deck points, mast etc...
|
|
|
|
Post by sleighride on Feb 23, 2017 1:22:39 GMT
I have located and repaired three deck leaks over 16 seasons with my 43DS:
1. bow pulpit fitting, starboard aft where fitting goes through deck and is backed by a large nut that worked loose.
2. anchor locker where rain water and waves entered around worn caulking around the inspection ports.
3. overhead cover just forward of mast where water entered through electrical wire fitting coming down from mast where it then entered through deck.
Good luck!
|
|
|
|
Post by freeflow on Jan 31, 2019 14:38:37 GMT
bumping up this old thread to gather more info. I think I have a keel bolt weep. I have been trying to break them loose to reseal with butyl tape and retorque them. I don't see where any other leaks are coming from thru hulls, but will investigate further.
sailing in rougher weather I have seen the bilge gain water at the rate of about 1 QT or 2 an hour. it seems to be rusty looking water which makes me think it is keel bolts weep. 2 seasons ago bilge was usually bone dry.
I am in great lakes fresh water and boat is hauled every winter.
|
|
|
|
Post by tilo on Jan 31, 2019 15:45:19 GMT
My refrigerator drains condensate into the bilge, so it's always wet. I'm not sure that's a bad thing. It keeps the float switch and the pump exercised. If it were always dry, I would be sure to throw a cup or two of water in there once a month just to run it.
|
|
|
|
Post by jy51 on Jan 31, 2019 17:08:17 GMT
Just a thought - Earlier in this thread someone mentioned water coming from the pressure relief valve on the hot water tank. This is a common problem, I solved it on a previous boat by fitting a short length of plastic tubing to the valve outlet and pushed the other end, well inside a 2 litre plastic mineral water bottle. I check it from time to time and empty the bottle as and when is necessary.
|
|
|
|
Post by John on Jan 31, 2019 18:31:59 GMT
Hi Georgia ,
First of all the 39i and 42i are very similar and sail very well .
Area's to check for leaks , the stanchions can have a leak if your remove the timber ceiling panel and have a look at the backing plates if rust here remove the plate clean and prime , rebed the stanchion start in aft cabins and at the port and starboard gates as travel lifts can move these .
Another area to check is the teak at the lower rear step to check go through aft cabin to view the plywood panel under the teak to check for a leak , you will need a mirror to view part of as pipework may block part of . Opening hatchs with vent may need the O ring replaced as these can also leak all easy fixes.
|
|
|
|
Post by sitara on Jan 31, 2019 20:07:41 GMT
Freeflow, I have seen leaks that were hard to trace from the water muffler and from hose tails on though hulls that were weakened by loss of zinc from the brass fitting. Good luck tracing your leak.
|
|
|
|
Post by vasko on Jan 31, 2019 20:59:13 GMT
We do have french boats  they are always wet and have some mysteriouse leak but they are great fun |
|
|
|
Post by georgia on Feb 1, 2019 1:23:26 GMT
"Hi Georgia , First of all the 39i and 42i are very similar and sail very well . Area's to check for leaks , the stanchions can have a leak if your remove the timber ceiling panel and have a look at the backing plates if rust here remove the plate clean and prime , rebed the stanchion start in aft cabins and at the port and starboard gates as travel lifts can move these . Another area to check is the teak at the lower rear step to check go through aft cabin to view the plywood panel under the teak to check for a leak , you will need a mirror to view part of as pipework may block part of . Opening hatchs with vent may need the O ring replaced as these can also leak all easy fixes. Read more: jeanneau.proboards.com/post/new/5206#ixzz5eEq4Q8ax " thanks for that insight.... i'm going to poke around next time i'm on board. cheers geo |
|
|
|
Post by uli057 on Feb 1, 2019 7:45:03 GMT
hi.
sun liberty cpl. dry!
when water... then comes from warm water boiler or other tools for drinking water.
no frigator, this coolbox cant drain water.... my ship layer is at back a liitle bit deeper.
water from engine, see you fast when stairs de mounted.
water from shower bath, this conectors for shower bath drain under the floor, there are a loot of tube clips.
this clips are not v4a material!
rosting.....🤔
all outlet ventils are in bronce...😊👍
at deepest point from ship is a pump and the third switch, this deepest point cant drain complete, 1cm water stands there over all the time.
or you dry manualy.
regards
uli
|
|
|
|
Post by so32foot on Feb 3, 2019 13:47:12 GMT
my SO32 from 2004 is ............ dry!
|
|
.
they are always wet and have some mysteriouse leak 