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Post by hoppy on Dec 21, 2014 14:22:22 GMT
What spares and special tools do you think is essential to keep onboard to keep the Yanmar going when cruising? I've been very fingers crossed and hope nothing breaks so far. I've now got some diesel maintenance books and will be heading to Jessabbé in a couple of days and whist there will hopefully do a stock take and make a shopping list. Of the top of my ignorant head I guess you need in your spares kit: - impeller
- belts for the alternator & whatever else it drives
- oil filter
- fuel filter
- rubber hoses and the fitting to mount them
And for specialist tools: - impeller puller
- oil filter tool
other stuff How much oil is good to carry on board? I guess enough to totally refill the engine plus a bit more? What essentials am I missing? |
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Post by Tafika II on Dec 21, 2014 16:47:27 GMT
Just working on my list as well for 2015. We are carrying an extra fuel pump and alternator. I have three of each filter and enough oil to make two oil changes for the engine and the genset. All of the other items you listed are on my list also. Make sure you have enough tinned wire & connectors to splice chaffed or broken wires as necessary. Don't for get the Racor filters and "O" ring gaskets on the fuel and water filter bowls and screw off lids.. I plan to post my list next year, but I hoping this thread will offer some fill in the blanks items!
Have fun cruising! |
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Post by Zanshin on Dec 21, 2014 18:07:43 GMT
In addition to what you've listed, I got a spare injector as well.
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Post by ianpowolny on Dec 21, 2014 18:56:28 GMT
We're following Tafka's lead on this and will add a spare alternator this year.
We also have an 8mm ratchet spanner for the water pump cover. Makes life easier than standard spanner. Our Pelar oil extractor works well.
Has anyone thought of adding the second alternator to the engine block so if one goes the second one is already online? How would this affect battery charging? I'm thinking this may be better than carrying it as a spare.
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Post by dbostrom on Dec 21, 2014 20:51:01 GMT
We've a spare starter as well, inherited because the previous owner was a model of forehanded thinking. I wondered about the practicality of that but looking at the engine it's fairly clear it can be changed without having to be double-jointed.
As I understand it starters are often the only reason why an engine can't be started after a seawater flooding event, even bypassing solenoids etc.
Presumably all electrical spares should be stored high or dry.
Hot-standby alternator is wearing its bearings? Something to think about.
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Post by hoppy on Dec 21, 2014 21:26:49 GMT
I just found a site listing two "cruising kits" covering a few things thats have not yet being mentioned marinedieselparts.com/store/4jh3_e.htm Minor Kit Major Kit For: Local Cruising For: Offshore Cruising Lube Oil Filter Minor Kit Parts Plus: Fuel Oil Filter Kit Full Gasket Set * Air Filter Element * Injector Washer * Set of Zinc(s) + Gasket(s) * Can Engine Paint Belt(s) Lift Pump + Gasket * Water Pump Impeller & Gasket Parts & Service Manuals Coolant Treatment * Fuel Injector * Marine Diesel Fuel Treatment Heat Exchanger Gaskets * Fuel Bleed Screw & Washer * Thermostat & Gasket MACK 726 Dry Box Water Pump Seal MACK 727 Dry Box (XL) Looks to be a "standard" Yanmar kit www.mcssl.com/store/j-wayenterprises/emergency-kits |
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Post by so40gtb on Dec 22, 2014 3:04:01 GMT
Voyageur and her predecessor, En l'Air, carry the following:
Seawater impeller & gasket
Oil filter & gasket
Primary (Racor) fuel filter & gasket
Secondary (Yanmar) fuel filter & gasket
Secondary filter case (for En l'Air's 3GM30F) & nylon washers for bleed screws
Copper washers for fuel system connections
Belt(s)
Wood plugs
Assorted hose diameters/lengths
Assorted hose clamps
Engine oil (min 2 liters)
Gearbox oil (min 1 liter)
Coolant (min 2 liters)
Yanmar operating & service manuals
I am contemplating adding a starter motor, after we suffered a failure last summer while cruising. If the old one can be rebuilt, that will be sufficient.
Were we to venture farther from shore (say, >100 km) I would increase the oil and coolant quantities.
I have a spare alternator (the original Hitachi, which was replaced with a Balmar) stored at home, but haven't decided on carrying it. Might do so on an extended cruise, though its capacity is lower.
--Karl
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Post by Trevor on Dec 22, 2014 5:36:56 GMT
Hello all,
Those are really good lists.
How about one of those pesky exhaust mixing elbows? They seem to fail pretty regularly.
The series 6 Balmar alternators have an optional switchable internal regulator which is a good standby for a failed external regulator.
Regards,
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Post by sailbleu on Dec 22, 2014 6:51:23 GMT
Redundency wise , bringing sparts parts I mean , you should consider what alternatives you have. We all know you cannot carry and extra engine , without compromising the waterline , so choices on what to take with you , should - in my view - be made on trying to get by untill you reach the next port. An example ,..... what would most of you pick if you would have to choose between a starter or an alternator ? I have neither of them on board, for now anyway , but in my case I would go for a starter , not an alternator . If you have a genset you can charge the batteries and continue doing that for weeks.Not to mention the use of solarpanels. Depending on the engine hours , you could consider bringing an alternator bearing as most engines have a belt that drives the waterpump (internal coolant) and the alternator together. If the alternators bearing gives in you're dead in the water. Better yet is to bring this : www.ebay.com/bhp/link-v-beltAn adustable emergency V-belt , so you don't need the proper spare belts and in this case not even an alternator bearing. You can bypass the alternator with it. Spare diesel filters are obligatory , no doubt , but so is BIOCIDE . Diesel bacteria , the source of so much heartache. Now I could give many examples of redundancy>>>alternative repairing , but how far to go with that. Now take the starter , the autopilot , the windlass , electrical winches and so on , if they fail , it's usually worn carbon brushes . Bring some big sized spares , you can easily grind them off to the proper size. Also , do not forget the blower ,as they tend to die on you very rapidly . In a tropical climate you need one. I have one installed as a forced air supply to the engine compartment , last summer I use that one to replace the evacuate-blower that was screaming like hell. Lubricated the small bearings and it is now -barely alive- serving as a supply blower. Which is used not that often or/and long. Now I can replace it when it suits me. Do not forget a spare waterpump , for domestic use that is. With regards to this I could add another comment . The exhaust of my petrol generator is cooled (and muffled) , so is my airco . I've built the system in such a way that the raw cooling water first passes through the airco and then straight to the genset. This way I can run the genset and airco simultaneously with one pump , but this is not what it's all about . I made sure to use the same type of pump as for my domestical water circuit.You see where I'm getting at. So this is the kind of redundancy I'm speaking about , in the case of failure of one pump I could still run the generator or have domestical water , be it one at the time . But it will carry me for the time needed when I decide to get a new pump . If you really rely on a watermaker (limited supply of water) , make sure to bring a sheet of plastic to attach to the bow railing on both sides a drain with hose in the middle to collect rainwater. Make the hose long enough and you can cut pieces for elsewhere if needed. Well, the list is long and maybe a bit individual , but again , try to think how you can solve a problem by using other things you carry with you , that could save you a consideral amount of weight. And if you make changes to your boat , use the same stuff that is already there in the first place. And finally , remember to take a foldable sheet of alu and tube of tec7 or sikaflex just in case you bump into something . That might keep your ship afloat. Regards. |
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Post by sailbleu on Dec 22, 2014 7:03:49 GMT
Voyageur and her predecessor, En l'Air, carry the following: Seawater impeller & gasket Oil filter & gasket Primary (Racor) fuel filter & gasket Secondary (Yanmar) fuel filter & gasket Secondary filter case (for En l'Air's 3GM30F) & nylon washers for bleed screws Copper washers for fuel system connections Belt(s) Wood plugs Assorted hose diameters/lengths Assorted hose clamps Engine oil (min 2 liters) Gearbox oil (min 1 liter) Coolant (min 2 liters) Yanmar operating & service manuals I am contemplating adding a starter motor, after we suffered a failure last summer while cruising. If the old one can be rebuilt, that will be sufficient.
Were we to venture farther from shore (say, >100 km) I would increase the oil and coolant quantities. I have a spare alternator (the original Hitachi, which was replaced with a Balmar) stored at home, but haven't decided on carrying it. Might do so on an extended cruise, though its capacity is lower. --Karl Hi Karl , what happened to it ? What engine do you have ? Regards |
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Post by hoppy on Dec 22, 2014 7:07:47 GMT
Depending on the engine hours , you could consider bringing an alternator bearing as most engines have a belt that drives the waterpump (internal coolant) and the alternator together. If the alternators bearing gives in you're dead in the water. Better yet is to bring this : www.ebay.com/bhp/link-v-beltAn adustable emergency V-belt , so you don't need the proper spare belts and in this case not even an alternator bearing. You can bypass the alternator with it. Wouldn't it be simpler and cheaper to find a belt that will work just with the water pump? Either way you are going to struggle getting tension on the belt (vaguely recalling I adjusted the tension by moving the alternator) |
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Post by hoppy on Dec 22, 2014 7:19:33 GMT
The motor on my fathers 34 footer had a handle for cranking the motor if the starter failed. I vaguely recall (it's 30 years ago now, gulp) that there might have been some leaver that stopped the compression to allow you to crank it. I do remember starting it that way as a test. Do smaller diesels have that as a backup option these days or is it a long gone option carried on from pre-electric starter motors days? No that I recall cranking a motor to life. My mum's first car was an Austin A30 or something similar and it had a starter handle as well which I sometimes used to start it for a laugh, that was 40 years ago  |
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Post by sailbleu on Dec 22, 2014 7:37:59 GMT
Hoppy , I don't think these days modern engines have a self cranking facility. Mine doens't. But maybe - in starter failure - I could ask my wife to push the boat hoping to crank the engine this way  Regards |
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Post by dbostrom on Dec 22, 2014 8:14:36 GMT
Do smaller diesels have that as a backup option these days or is it a long gone option carried on from pre-electric starter motors days? Some do; I just read of a boat that was ultimately lost when the crew discovered their manual crank could not be turned because of the way the engine was mounted. Talk about frustrating. This was a small engine, though; 15HP if I recall correctly. |
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Post by sailbleu on Dec 22, 2014 8:18:25 GMT
Depending on the engine hours , you could consider bringing an alternator bearing as most engines have a belt that drives the waterpump (internal coolant) and the alternator together. If the alternators bearing gives in you're dead in the water. Better yet is to bring this : www.ebay.com/bhp/link-v-beltAn adustable emergency V-belt , so you don't need the proper spare belts and in this case not even an alternator bearing. You can bypass the alternator with it. Wouldn't it be simpler and cheaper to find a belt that will work just with the water pump? Either way you are going to struggle getting tension on the belt (vaguely recalling I adjusted the tension by moving the alternator) Hoppy , the given link is just as an indicating of the existense of adjustable belts. There is also the type were you can increase the tension. Having such a spare belt will give you several options , It was just to point out there's no need to bring/buy everything in duplicate. For instance , replacing an impeller pre-emptively could help you out with a spare. Again , my philosophy of redundancy is the ability of a temporary repair. A supply of coolant liquid is advised but only if you also bring a hose repair set/tape. In an emergency water can be used in the primary cooling system , without heating the engine too much that is . You know , the fysics of boiling bubbles in the water and their insulating effect on the inside walls of the cooling circuit. Regards |
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Post by On y va on Dec 23, 2014 14:59:45 GMT
A tube of gasket fluid is VERY handy.
Besides all the obvious parts (filters, belts, etc), one thing most people forget is a spare sea weed strainer. If that plastic lid cracks properly (so it cannot be taped up I mean) you have a problem.
Also, a spare breather. Same thing: if that fails, you have a serious problem. They weigh nothing, but are vital parts.
I will have a new starter motor fitted before my cruise starts, and will have my old one cleaned up. I will take the old one as spare. Not too concerned about the alternator.
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Post by Tafika II on Dec 23, 2014 15:47:12 GMT
On Y VA, what is a seaweed strainer and the breather you noted? Not familiar with those items.
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Post by On y va on Dec 23, 2014 17:03:33 GMT
It´s the (usually) plastic round thingie where the seawater has to pass through after the engine seacock, before going into the engine. Not all boats have them fitted actually, which to me is a total mystery. Usually it´s VETUS unit. Jeanneau normally fit one with a butterfly nut, to secure the PVC lid. I "upgraded" mine to one with a screw on plastic lid, as these things with the butterlfy nut crack very easily when tightened too much. If that lid then cracks, the engine sucks air. Had this issue on several yachts. Here you can see both: www.vetusmarine.com/store/c/343-Strainers.aspxThe breather (air vent valve) is the (also usually VETUS) thing that ensures that after turning the engine off, the water flows out of the cooling system, so no water can flood your engine. Here the air vent or breather valves: www.vetusmarine.com/store/c/373-Air-Vents.aspx |
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Post by Tafika II on Dec 23, 2014 17:56:33 GMT
OK...now I know what you are talking about...those thing-a-ma-bobs!
Have a Merry Christmas!
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Post by J349er on Dec 23, 2014 19:13:04 GMT
My J349 has a Vetus with screw-on plastic lid. Just curious, how tight should the lid be after cleaning the filter? Do you just tighten it by hand or do you need to use a tool?
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Post by sleighride on Dec 23, 2014 19:40:02 GMT
I own a DS 43 and the Morse Cable went out on the boat this summer in Glacier Bay where we were out of range for VHF and cell coverage. We lost 8 days of our trip ordering replacement cables from Seattle, WA to be shipped to Alaska. The cable length on the Junneau cables (both the throttle and shift cables do not match the lengths on the Telefax replacements.) I would never leave home again without an extra cable. The throttle cable was actually 21 feet long when carefully measured played along the dock. I had to ship back the 18 foot cable they sent the first time, as it was too short despite the numbers on the cable itself. These cables CANNOT be repaired if they break and must be replaced since they are "push-pull" stainless and run from the engine through the hull, and back up to the remote control lever in the cockpit.
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Post by Damir on Dec 23, 2014 20:26:38 GMT
What spares and special tools do you think is essential to keep onboard to keep the Yanmar going when cruising? I've been very fingers crossed and hope nothing breaks so far. I've now got some diesel maintenance books and will be heading to Jessabbé in a couple of days and whist there will hopefully do a stock take and make a shopping list. Of the top of my ignorant head I guess you need in your spares kit: - impeller
- belts for the alternator & whatever else it drives
- oil filter
- fuel filter
- rubber hoses and the fitting to mount them
And for specialist tools: - impeller puller
- oil filter tool
other stuff How much oil is good to carry on board? I guess enough to totally refill the engine plus a bit more? What essentials am I missing? |
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Post by Don Reaves on Dec 23, 2014 20:48:16 GMT
My J349 has a Vetus with screw-on plastic lid. Just curious, how tight should the lid be after cleaning the filter? Do you just tighten it by hand or do you need to use a tool? No, don't use a tool to tighten it. There's an O-ring to seal the lid, and you don't want to deform it. I hand tighten the one on my SO35. I often find that it requires quite a bit more force to loosen than I thought I applied to tighten it. Not sure what might cause that effect. Don |
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Post by Damir on Dec 23, 2014 21:00:02 GMT
First make a good service to the engine and if you think for a longer journey. Change everything must change normally you have to have a minimum in case of failure impeller seawater, belts, filters, oil. You're not the first mechanic else all costs and probably will not be used in the future. I have Sunshine 39 from 86 second hand on the board I have 3 seawater ipmelers of previous owners, belts, rubber hoses, filters, wires, tools ever used.
If you listen to the other boat owners take reserves engine that's for sure, and maybe you have a problem with the propeller or gland, cylinder head and then what? You have a sailboat
Good service is the best and cheapest solution for all problems in the future.
Damir |
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Post by MalcolmP on Dec 23, 2014 22:34:00 GMT
My J349 has a Vetus with screw-on plastic lid. Just curious, how tight should the lid be after cleaning the filter? Do you just tighten it by hand or do you need to use a tool? No, don't use a tool to tighten it. There's an O-ring to seal the lid, and you don't want to deform it. I hand tighten the one on my SO35. I often find that it requires quite a bit more force to loosen than I thought I applied to tighten it. Not sure what might cause that effect. Don Don is spot on. I always clean and regrease the big O ring - then hand tighten - then double check the water flow - any air leak will stop/reduce the flow. Undoing is always hard, I now have a rubber strap wrench and it is easy - I think the grease tends to harden in the threads  |
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