|
|
Post by reverie on Oct 28, 2014 21:07:57 GMT
Hello all,
My 2004 SO35 is back on the hard after a great summer of cruising. The boat is now 10 years old, so I figure it's time to replace the Volvo shaft seal, which according to Volvo should be replaced every 5 years.
To do this, I must remove the shaft from the engine. I had no problems removing the flange from the engine, but now need to remove the flange from the forward end of the propeller shaft. I noticed a large nut (about 1" or 25mm) inside the flange on the end of the shaft. Does anyone know how to remove this? I can get a socket on it, but how can I hold the flange and prevent it from turning? I don't really want to put a pipe wrench on the flange and chew up the finish on the exterior. Has anyone figured out a good trick for this?
Also, can I assume that once I remove the large nut, I can pull the flange forward - and off the forward end of the shaft? Hopefully, I won't need a big hammer for this!
Many thanks,
John
|
|
|
|
Post by ianqv on Oct 28, 2014 22:15:01 GMT
Hi Jon,
You will be pleased to hear that this is an easy job.
I use a pair of mole grips on the shaft right next the flange.
This allows you to then undo the center nut.
However, at this point only undo the nut approx 4 turns.
Slide the shaft aft, and tap the flange with a hammer. It should pop off with no probs.
You can now undo the nut and remove the flange off of the shaft.
If it doesn't come off after a few taps, you will need to use a puller.
I changed my shaft seal back in April - whilst afloat!!!! (defo not for the faint hearted!!).
Best Regards
Ian
|
|
|
|
Post by reverie on Oct 28, 2014 23:55:29 GMT
Perfect. Thanks, Ian.
This makes sense. Obviously, you initially only loosen the nut about 4 turns to ensure the flange doesn't go flying off somewhere when you hit it with the hammer.
I'll cross my fingers and hope I won't need the puller.
Nicely done changing your shaft seal while afloat. Better you than me, however.
Cheers,
John
|
|
|
|
Post by sailbleu on Oct 29, 2014 6:10:39 GMT
If bashing doesn't work , and that could well be the case if you don't have enough room to swing the hammer these two pictures explain how it can be done in an easy way. No need to have the tools in SS , plain iron will work also .But it's to get an idea. If you decide to try Ian's suggestion it would be helpfull to heat up the flange with a hotair blaster , expansion you see. Placing the flange in an oven afterwards before getting it on the shaft again is also recommendable.   Good luck |
|
|
|
Post by bikerwookie on Oct 29, 2014 11:32:45 GMT
Just did mine. Replaced with a radice seal.
To remove the nut I had to make a tool with two holes bolted to the flange to use as a lever and then use a large breaker bar to get the nut off. Mine was done up to"red face tight" setting.
To split the coupling from the shaft I left the nut on with a few turns and used another nut as a spacer. Then used four longer m8 bolts reattached to the engine flange as a sort of press.
|
|
|
|
Post by reverie on Oct 31, 2014 20:49:31 GMT
Many thanks, guys.
I certainly hope that I don't need to resort to making special tools to get the job done. I will be back at the boat in a few weeks and give it another go. Will keep you posted.
John
|
|
|
|
Post by electricmonk on Nov 6, 2014 9:20:21 GMT
Used every trick in the book on mine, it would not budge. In the end we cut the shaft off with an angle grinder and for a laugh put the flange on a 50ton press - still wouldn't come off. Now I have a duplex shaft and a stainless shaft connector that's keyed to the shaft (as standard its a plain friction fit with 6 bolts mine now has a keyway as well) , and an R&D cushion drive, takes minutes to change a shaft seal even when afloat - but at what price!
|
|
|
|
Post by reverie on Dec 27, 2014 22:27:27 GMT
Victory is mine! But is sure wasn't easy removing that flange from the shaft. It took a combination of using a 5-ton gear puller cranked up as tight as I could make it, heating the flange with a torch, and bashing it with a hammer. Quite a thing when it finally lets go. Fortunately, by the looks of things, no damage done.
When I reassemble things, I'm going to put a little vaseline on the shaft to hopefully make things a bit easier the next time.
On a related note, I had the opportunity to compare the lips inside the old Volvo shaft seal with the new one. I was very surprised to see how much the two lips had worn down over the last 10 years/700 engine hours. I had read on other sites that owners had used their Volvo shaft seals for far longer than this. However, after seeing the degree of wear, I will now diligently change mine every 500 hours (approximately 7 years). I have no plans to change to a different brand of shaft seal - I think the Volvo shaft seal is a great piece of kit.
Cheers,
John
|
|
speedbird1
Junior Member
Posts: 15 
Jeanneau Model: SO 45 DS
Yacht Name: Cloud 9
Home Port: Sant Carles de la Rapita
Country: Spain
|
Post by speedbird1 on Mar 31, 2015 18:26:20 GMT
Well done. Having changed the shaft seal no doubt you keep a close eye on it.
Do do you find the seal gets warm when in use or do you always find it cold? My Volvo seal does get quite warm. A few "burps" will remove the warm water but I find this quite tiresome to check it every hour. Or am I being paranoid?
Peter.
|
|
|
|
Post by reverie on Apr 1, 2015 19:28:21 GMT
Hello Peter,
To be honest, I have not ever noticed my shaft seal becoming warm, which I think would indicate some level of friction and consequently premature wear. I do burp the seal every two weeks or so to ensure water is inside the seal and providing lubrication. I also inject grease each year using a drinking straw.
Perhaps others have found their Volvo shaft seal becoming warm?
John
|
|
carstenb
Junior Member
Posts: 11
Country: Denmark
|
Post by carstenb on Apr 13, 2015 7:29:01 GMT
How do you guys "burp" this. My seal is hard as a rock
|
|
speedbird1
Junior Member
Posts: 15
Jeanneau Model: SO 45 DS
Yacht Name: Cloud 9
Home Port: Sant Carles de la Rapita
Country: Spain
|
Post by speedbird1 on Apr 13, 2015 12:45:40 GMT
Stupid answer - cut out the viagra
Sensible answer - the seal is pretty tough. You really need two hands to squeeze the seal about half way along the length to open up the end nearest the engine. It should allow a small amount of "give" to allow the air to escape. When you start getting water dripping out of the shaft end of the seal release the gland and it should reseal. Have a look on the" general topics " forum for other recent input on this subject.
Good luck
Peter
|
|
|
|
Post by dbella on Oct 5, 2023 3:22:37 GMT
If bashing doesn't work , and that could well be the case if you don't have enough room to swing the hammer these two pictures explain how it can be done in an easy way. No need to have the tools in SS , plain iron will work also .But it's to get an idea. If you decide to try Ian's suggestion it would be helpfull to heat up the flange with a hotair blaster , expansion you see. Placing the flange in an oven afterwards before getting it on the shaft again is also recommendable. Good luck |
|
|
|
Post by MalcolmP on Oct 5, 2023 9:33:44 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by dbella on Oct 5, 2023 21:13:38 GMT
Malcolm,
I’m not sure if that’s it. That deals with changing the cutlets bearing, but maybe it could apply to removal of the flange in order to change the shaft seal. I thought the icons just represented two photos. Thanks for looking.
Dan
|
|
|
|
Post by dbella on Oct 5, 2023 21:15:37 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by tarn on Oct 9, 2023 12:16:58 GMT
Hi Undo the nut a few turns then replace onto the gearbox flange. Tighten the securing nuts in an X sequence gently and it will push the shaft free of the coupler without hammers wrenches or pullers. You may need to loose the nut a little further and repeat. Just be patient and gentle. 😎
|
|
|
|
Post by reader on Oct 13, 2023 15:49:48 GMT
Tarn,
Thanks for the suggestion. Bikerwookie suggested the same method above in this thread. I’ll have to try it.
Dan
|
|
|
|
Post by reader on Oct 13, 2023 15:57:59 GMT
Malcolm,
I don’t think the link you sent me was the right one. Sailbleu, in his post, referred to “these two pictures.” There must be another post with only two pictures.
Dan
|
|
