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Post by tedp on Jul 15, 2014 11:22:46 GMT
7/7/2014 In the last weekend of June we sailed in our SO32 'Manokwari', on a cruise to the southern Delta in the Netherlands. We left our home port on the IJsselmeer (a fresh water inland sea), heading north to the naval port of Den Helder. On the Monday we sailed with the tide, along the Dutch coast to IJmuiden, the shipping canal entrance to Amsterdam. The coastal trip down to the delta was quite speedy, since the tide was in our favour on each of the three legs of the trip. Often we made 8 knots over the ground despite the slight wind on our quarter. There was however a short swell about 5ft tall that made us roll uncomfortably. Only after crossing the Maas entrance (Hook of Holland) the swell abated. Here is a view of the steelworks at IJmuiden, seen from the sea as we approach. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P6302504.jpgWhen at IJmuiden we took an evening stroll along the beach and the southern breakwater. I never though there might be beauty in heavy industry: www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P6302561.jpgwww.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P6302569.jpgAlong the shore of the marina just beyond our berth we spotted this fox, evidently on the scrounge for food. The gulls weren't happy with it, probably because it's gull breeding time: www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P6302512.jpgBeyond Scheveningen, after we crossed the Maas entrance, we turned into the estuary leading to the locks at Stellendam. Here is a sea barrier closing off the waters beyond - a measure taken after the disastrous floods of 1953. Behind the barrier is fresh water. We continued to the small town of Middelharnis, and after shopping there we continued to a quiet anchorage we know. The weather wasn't too hot, just pleasant and slightly damp. The view at sunset is stunning. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7042614.jpgwww.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7042653.jpg" As I wrote this a few days later, we had locked through several other compartment barriers, ending up in the salt water lake created by another of the so-called 'delta works'. Here are a few old seaports, the most historic of which is Brouwershaven which used to enjoy busy overseas trade. Now it is only a sleepy small town. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7062660.jpgwww.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7062672.jpg |
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Post by MalcolmP on Jul 15, 2014 12:22:58 GMT
Many thanks for sharing this, I have many great memories of the Delta, first sailed there in 1969, across the North Sea in a 20 foot boat and the highlight was exploring the Biesbosch. The towns like Willemstad, Zirikzee and Goes are just fabulous. We did pass through Stellendam a few years ago in our 39i - the fixed bridge looked rather too close to our windvane, even if I had done the theoretical calculations.
Enjoy the rest of your summer
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Post by tedp on Jul 15, 2014 18:57:36 GMT
Thanks, Malcolm. Glad you know the area - it's a wonderful place to spend your holiday. 9/7/2014 After a quiet day sail with my brother and his wife, who were spending their holiday in the area, now the weather has really let us down. As I wrote this, it was 8:00pm on July 9th and the rain had finally stopped. in the morning: www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7082707.jpgIn the evening: www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7082720.jpgWe decided to visit the local museum, a small exhibition in an old ship owner's house facing the harbour, featuring ship's models, sea charts and paintings. 11/07/2014 After another day spent inside in a force 8 gale, we finally sailed from Brouwershaven. As we sailed from Brouwershaven, we had an extraordinary meeting. I saw a black dorsal fin next to the boat and first thought of a large fish. however, the snorting sounds and repeated surfacing proved to be produced by a porpoise, possibly two or three. I saw a bubble track as the animal exhaled just before surfacing, then a sudden snort as its vent appeared above the surface. This continued for about 5 or 10 minutes. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7102763.jpgwww.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7102772.jpgwww.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7102777.jpgWe sailed to the locks at Bruinisse and ended up in Wemeldinge, next to the canal to the Scheldt river. Our goal was to spend the weekend in Antwerp, Belgium, so we needed to lock out into the Scheldt estuary as the flood tide started to run in the morning. |
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Post by tedp on Jul 15, 2014 20:47:44 GMT
14/7/2014 Following several days of lousy internet, here is another message from the crew of Manokwari. Meanwhile we spent the weekend at Antwerp and returned to the Delta, staying at Zierikzee in the Oosterschelde estuary. The trip to Antwerp started at Wemeldinge. We entered the canal to the Scheldt estuary, which, including lifting bridges and the Hansweert locks, took us about an hour and a half. Departure from Hansweert around mid-day was in time for the flood tide, which runs at up to 3 knots in some places. Recreational traffic and freight barges stay away from the main fairway which is used by seagoing ships to Antwerp. These run at up to 15 knots and set up a huge bow wave. As the main fairway is narrow this traffic isn't to be underestimated. Arrival at Antwerp was around 3pm. The Kattendijk lock keeper told me he was unable to open up till 5pm due to the high water, so we were diverted to another lock next to it. However this put us to the wrong side of a lifting bridge which wouldn't open until after 5, so it didn't help us at all. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7112796.jpg" Eventually we went in convoy to the 'London' bridge which gives access to the city marina in an old graving dock dating from the early 19th Century. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7122862.jpgOur berth in the Willemdok marina Next to the Willemdok marina there is a tall red building housing the great new central museum of Antwerp. This incorporates the old Maritime Museum which used to be in the 'Steen' castle on the river bank. From the roof there is a panorama view of the city and the harbour. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7132864.jpgThe museum harbour in the Bonaparte dock, next to the marina www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7132896.jpgBelow right: Manokwari in the Willemdok marina (panorama from the museum roof) Antwerp is an interesting city - if you can spend a few days, there is a lot to be seen in the way of culture and history, such as centuries-old paintings in the churches and the ancient inner city. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7132990.jpgThe roof of Antwerp's beautiful cathedral. There are numerous excellent restaurants, and when we walked back to the harbour we took what we thought was a shortcut. Instead it took us into the red light district of the Schipperstraat, where numerous ladies of ill repute show there wares. Behind glass, of course... |
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Post by tedp on Jul 17, 2014 21:29:39 GMT
15/7/2014 Return over the Scheldt river After a weekend spent at Antwerp, which regrettably was a little rainy, we cast off on Monday at 6am. This meant a short night after having watched the World Championship final in a waterfront pub. However, the tide won't wait. We called the bridge on the VHF, about 15 minutes before the advertised opening. After passing the bridge we tied up in the Kattendijk lock. The lock keeper came along to tell he had to wait for the water to sink before he could work the lock gates, which would take about an hour. So we made breakfast first. Eventually the lock gates opened and we motored out, finding a roaring ebb tide of over 3 knots. So we put the engine at medium revs and made good 7 or 8 knots over the ground. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7143079.jpgwww.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7143086.jpgOn the ebb we quickly passed the industrial areas on both banks of the river, then past the sea locks at Kallo, the King Badouin locks and the Europa container terminal, with the Zandvliet locks around the corner. These are all meant for seagoing traffic. VHF contact up to the locks at Kallo is on Ch10, downstream you talk to the Zandvliet traffic centre on 12. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7143092.jpgEuropa container terminal Seagoing vessels run at up to 15 knots out on the river, so you need to keep well away from them. Usually there are subsidiary fairways inside or across shallows, used by barges and yachts. Don't underestimate the bow and stern waves set up by a seagoing vessel. On the Elbe river in Germany I once watched a wave from a big container ship sweeping the deck of a 40 footer I was crewing on. So keep all hatches on deck shut. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7143096.jpgLeaving Belgium you see the cooling towers of the nuclear power plant at Doel behind you, on the left bank. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7143095.jpgSome of the banks dry out at low water. They sometimes are directly behind the buoys, such as this one at the entrance of the Valkenisse fairway. The tide rip on the bank can clearly be seen. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7143101.jpgArriving at the Hansweert canal lock we called the Hansweert traffic centre for permission to proceed to the locks. We entered behind a dredger and tried to tie up behind a big motor yacht. The boat went all over the place as the skipper had tied up only with a stern rope, with his engine running ahead and the wash pushing us around. This is expressly forbidden, but a request to stop his propeller was flatly denied. So I yelled through the lock STOP THAT **** PROPELLER. It made a nice echo, I can tell you. It helped. The man decided to tie up forward after all and stop his engine. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7143104.jpgHaving passed through the canal, we got the flood against us in the Oosterschelde estuary. There was 15 to 20 knots of wind, so we took a few rolls in the genoa and pulled a reef, tacking madly against the tide to get to the estuary bridge and proceed to Zierikzee. We needed to go about 10 times before we were clear of the big shallows in the centre. Our mainsheet traveller earned its pay - we ran at 6 knots, flat on our ear. After a few hours sailing, we tied up in a nice spot at the yacht club in Zierikzee, where we would stay for two days. |
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Post by tedp on Jul 21, 2014 15:38:30 GMT
A week of beautiful summer weather concluded our holiday trip to the Dutch delta. Over the weekend we had two of our three sons staying on board, one bringing his girl. We had a full house and had a wonderful weekend. Last week we stayed at Zierikzee, which is a pretty old town on the north shore of the Oosterschelde estuary - a former tributary estuary of the Scheldt river which silted up until it was divorced from the main river. Here is Manokwari sitting on her mirror image just inside the tidal lock at Zierikzee: www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7163131.jpgLife is very bad indeed. View from the cockpit across the harbour channel at Zierikzee. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7143106.jpgwww.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7153125.jpgThe old water gate and lifting bridges. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7153114.jpgNext we moved on to a sheltered creek about 10 miles further inland, off the village of St-Annaland, anchoring for the night before going inside to pick up one of our sons. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7173152.jpgIt slowly became very hot, which meant we were either in the water or walking on the sandbanks. These are part of a nature reserve. Access used to be forbidden, but it appears the rules have been relaxed provided you keep away from the birds. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7183183.jpgwww.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7183203.jpg" www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7183208.jpgThe next day we had a crew of 5, and made a sailing trip from St-Annaland to the miles-long Zeeland bridge, about 10 miles downstream. On the way back we sailed around 40-45 degrees off the wind, with the sails trimmed as well as possible. I hauled the mainsheet traveller a bit to windward until all the tell-tales flew, and we made about 4.5 to 5 knots through the water in a 10 knot wind. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7193252.jpgWe were overtaken by the lifeboat, roaring past at 30+ knots. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7193254.jpgWhen making the turn in the estuary, a hot gust came off the land at about 15 to 20 knots, which gave us a little work before we could take in sail and motor into the creek. There the hook went in so we could cool down in the water and have another walk on the sandbanks. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7183207.jpgwww.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7193274.jpgMy crew has now gone home due to various obligations, and I'm left to sail the boat home by myself. I'm having to decide whether to take the coastal route beating against a foul wind, sea against tide in two 25-30 mile legs, or to take the easy inland route, motoring along the canals and waiting endlessly for all the bridges and locks. Perhaps the weather forecast tomorrow will decide for me - I have plenty of time to get home.  |
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Post by MalcolmP on Jul 22, 2014 6:58:34 GMT
Thanks indeed for sharing, looks like you had a fantastic time.
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Post by tedp on Jul 25, 2014 19:16:01 GMT
Glad you like the tale, Malcolm. Here is the final episode! On my way home (final report of this trip) The choice to take the coastal route was a difficult one - a foul wind and a nasty short sea against me. But it appealed to me more than the inland route with all its obstacles. Here I am, waiting on the inside of a jetty next to a lock between two major waterways, in the drizzle, making up my mind after hearing the weather report. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7213300.jpgIn the end I went to sea, moving the boat to a marina just inside the tidal barrier near the old town of Hellevoetsluis. The morning afterwards I locked out to sea, with a northeasterly 3/4, increasing 5. My course would be northeast... www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7233330.jpgA small convoy of yachts sailed over the flood tide, flat before the wind, until it was time to turn north and head for the fairway crossing near Hook of Holland. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7233333.jpgSome people don't care about the fairway and keeping to the starboard side. A fisherman came straight at me, wrong side of the channel and full ahead, and literally forced me out of the fairway. Fortunately there was enough water over the sandbanks. He did make a nice picture, though. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7233338.jpg" The northwesterly swell became noticeable long before I approached the fairway buoy. I turned to starboard towards the marker buoy for the crossing, with a roll in the genoa and the sheet blocks moved forward. The boat tracked quite well despite the occasional gust of 20 knots plus. I called the traffic centre to check in and tacked across the main fairway, dodging the cargo ships. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7233341.jpgThe crossing was extremely rough with a confused sea due to the bow and stern waves of the cargo ships, combined with the wind waves and the swell. On my way to Scheveningen I needed to tack several times. The wind was a bit fluky with strong gusts. If I tacked to port, 5 minutes later the wind went against me, etc. With a roll in the genoa and the Cunningham hauled down to open the leech of the main, I made a few long tacks. In the end I had a continuous 25 knots apparent wind - about 20 knots true, a nice force 5. The short stubby sea was formidable, I had to hold on with hands and feet when I needed to look in the chart or make a sandwich. Occasionally the boat stuck its nose into a roller. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7233345.jpgwww.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7233347.jpgwww.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7233366.jpgA brand new lifeboat came tearing past, on sea trials. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7233371.jpgThree miles from the harbour I had enough. I had worked myself stiff and I'd had the sun into the cockpit all day long, so I took in sail and started the engine. Thus, 'Manokwari' and I used the last of the tide to make port. Continuing the next day I continued to IJmuiden on Thursday, planning to lock into the inland water system there and continue to my home port which is on the IJsselmeer, an inland sea. At 11am I left Scheveningen harbour and started motoring northeast, against the last of the tide. Although it was rough, having the boat upright for the first hour or so and eating up the miles before setting sail was a good idea for a not-too-young solo sailor. Here is the Scheveningen waterfront and pier from the sea: www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7243380.jpgAbout 10 miles into the trip I set sail. The tide had turned and again I used the rolled-in genoa. I reefed the main which later proved to be a good idea. As the coast curves a little north, the wind was slightly better for me and I could almost keep the course until shortly before IJmuiden. There I tacked towards the harbour entrance and took down sail almost in the lee of the breakwater. Again, the boat ran quite well, although the strong gusts bothered me. Once I had an apparent wind of 30 knots, about 23 true. Even the autohelm played nicely along when I opened the main a little. Shortly before IJmuiden a beautiful yacht came in from the port side, then tacked slightly to my lee and, crossing some distance ahead of me, proceeded to run away from me, at least 5 degrees closer to the wind as I fought my reefed-down boat upwind. That's what you pay for with a shallow keel and cheap sails! www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7243393.jpgwww.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7243397.jpg" www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7243398.jpgAs I write this, the boat is still at IJmuiden - I had to return home for the weekend. On Monday I'll start the last leg of the trip, in less taxing waters! End of story... almost! |
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Post by sitara on Jul 25, 2014 22:31:26 GMT
It was a great pleasure to read of your exploits on this trip and to look at your fantastic photos. many thanks for posting them.
Rob
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Post by tedp on Jul 26, 2014 6:16:06 GMT
Thanks Rob - it must be a sailing area quite different from yours. Although we had temperatures recently not unlike what you must be used to!
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Post by tedp on Jul 30, 2014 19:52:02 GMT
When I wrote my previous post, I guessed I was returning to more sheltered waters. Hwever, the Markermeer/IJsselmeer area is an inland fresh water sea that can be very rough indeed if the wind is foul... which it was! www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7283422.jpgOn the Monday, after a very wet morning at IJmuiden, I continued through the ship canal to Amsterdam and beyond. There is a sheltered anchorage off the little town of Durgerdam, a former fishing village turned into an expensive neighbourhood for well-to-do people from Amsterdam. The picturesque waterfront makes a nice setting to anchor for the night. There was a short shallow swell reflected from the breakwater across the fairway, about half a mile off, so I put a spring on the anchor line to turn the boat slightly towards it. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7283441.jpgAfter a quiet night I enjoyed a beautiful morning. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7293442.jpgThe wind was north however, and when I went on my way to Enkhuizen it really started hauling through. I took a few rolls in the genoa, then pulled the Cunningham down. Next was first reef, and still the boat started to labour in the increasing northerly. Second reef was pulled, and I sat on the side deck outside the cockpit, being smacked by buckets of water from the short steep sea. By then I had 25-30 knots on the meter. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7293463.jpgwww.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7293464.jpg" www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7293465.jpgwww.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7293466.jpgAfter I had tacked towards the ancient town of Hoorn, about 10 miles away to the other side of the water, I decided to stop there. It was nearly 6pm and I didn't fancy continuing the struggle for another 7 miles northeast towards Enkhuizen. So I spent the night in the sheltered marina of the yacht club under the town wall, and continued the next morning in very little wind, under engine to the locks of Enkhuizen. Here is a shot of the historic waterfront of Hoorn. www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7303468.jpgThrough the locks on to the next expanse, the IJsselmeer which is my home area, the wind started to increase though not to the extent of the day before. Halfway I met a fishing boat, the crew of which was busy throwing the heads and tails over the side. A fast food restaurant for the gulls and cormorants! www.009dutch.nl/jeanneau/2014dutchdelta/images/P7303473.jpg" After another hour close to the wind, I returned to my home berth in Andijk. Shortly afterwards the wind increased again, but for me it was the end of a very windy return voyage! |
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Post by Full Circle on Aug 5, 2014 13:53:10 GMT
Our turn in 2 weeks time.
We will cross to Gravelines, then Nieuwpoort and then up into Westerschelde. We will be going up to Antwerp, and then North to the Oosterschelde.
Thanks for this fantastic post and photos.
How often did you use the plank tied to the rails?
Jim
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Post by tedp on Aug 13, 2014 8:02:04 GMT
Jim - the plank tied to the rail is used as a fender barrier when I tie up against piles. In the Delta area you'll hardly need them as there are plenty of good floating pontoons.
If you go up the Belgian coast, I'd recommend Ostend instead of Nieuwpoort, since the town is much more interesting.
Have a good trip - the wind is in the SW quarter!
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Post by tedp on May 30, 2016 13:49:28 GMT
Thread updated after re-hosting the photos, May 30, 2016.
The photos had disappeared due to the demise of the Dutch language Jeanneau forum.
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