svmobert
Junior Member
Posts: 18
Country: USA
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Post by svmobert on Oct 16, 2014 6:45:24 GMT
Ours counts from zero and goes up. Also, there must be some calibration you can do because ours is way off. For every gallon of water we consume it registers 8.1 on the meter. So it's measuring approximately a pint. We have two tanks and I calculated the same 8.1 factor for both tanks. I empty a tank completely before switching to the other tank and zero the meter each time. And I put a label under the meter with the meter value expected for when each tank should be empty.
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Post by Stella Maris on Oct 16, 2014 17:26:37 GMT
Thanks for your reply. Very interesting. I'm hoping someone else chimes in as the display on my boat never worked and I'm in the process of buying a new one from Kuebler.
I think my meter is metric so I would have expected that your display should have been litres, but a reading of 8.1 per gallon is way off to the 3.8 that I would expect if it was displaying litres.
I wonder what other people's readings are or if there is a way to calibrate it from the meter side.
The tech at Kuebler says the Codix 130 model, which I see on another thread, is a direct replacement to the original one and it can't be calibrated. As he said one "pulse" on the meter is 1 on the display.
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Post by electricmonk on Oct 16, 2014 20:40:00 GMT
The battery on the display is built in and lasts for about 5 years, on this forum somewhere are instructions I posted on how to fit an external battery so you don't have to buy a new display every time the battery goes flat. Yes I know codex say you cant replace the battery - but yes you can.
Don't worry too much about what the numbers mean, my boat measures in litres (and its petty accurate) but from full to empty the number it registers is always the same (242 on the aft tank, 149 on frwd), so if you know how high it reads before the tank empties its not a problem, just remember to zero it when you fill up.
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Post by Stella Maris on Oct 17, 2014 18:51:49 GMT
Thanks a lot for your reply.
I had seen you info on the battery. It will be very helpful when I finally get my new display.
I see what you mean about not worrying too much about the volume of the number once you know what it is when the tank is empty.
I wanted confirmation on the PN of the Codix. I was seeing 2 different numbers with the last digit being a 3 or a 2.
It goes Codix 130 PN# 6.130.012.853 or PN#6.130.012.852
I think the correct one is 6.130.012.853
I am ready to order the replacement for $72.97 US but I want to be sure.
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Post by electricmonk on Oct 18, 2014 13:23:12 GMT
why buy a new display? you can re-battery the old one for a couple of dollars.
Calibration depends on the water meter the display is connected to, mine is one pulse = 1 litre, other meters will be calibrated differently, IMP gallons, US Gallons, pints, quarts, 100CC etc etc. The display just counts the pulses.
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svmobert
Junior Member
Posts: 18
Country: USA
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Post by svmobert on Oct 20, 2014 3:01:45 GMT
why buy a new display? you can re-battery the old one for a couple of dollars. Calibration depends on the water meter the display is connected to, mine is one pulse = 1 litre, other meters will be calibrated differently, IMP gallons, US Gallons, pints, quarts, 100CC etc etc. The display just counts the pulses. As far as calibration.. My mechanical meter has a tag hanging from it saying 1 pulse = 1 liter.. But I can guarantee somewhere in the mechanical meter->sensor->digital meter chain that calibration is way off. I haven't tracked the mechanical meter to see how it's counting yet.. That's probably a good next step.
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Post by Stella Maris on Oct 20, 2014 11:37:37 GMT
Electricmonk, thanks again for your help.
Problem is that my old one is completely destroyed.
What does the calibration tag look like. I'm seeing a small lead "seal" crimped onto the meter but not really any calibration. The meter does look like it is cubic meters according to what is labeled on it.
I just need to verify the part number to order a new one.
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Post by rxc on Oct 22, 2014 13:45:32 GMT
Stella Maris,
Sorry for the late response - family wedding interfered with my boating duties.
Yes, that is the correct part number. Kubler makes a of of different industrial counters, and the part numbers reflect the various sizes they make, the power supply, the counting capability, etc. That part number is a drop-in replacement.
You do not need to calibrate anything. The Kubler box is just a pulse counter, and it just records the number of pulses that it receives from the actual water meter itself, which is located next to your water pump. Look at my photo and you will see the meter with a wire going to it. There is a magnetic reed switch on the face of the meter and this closes when the dial passes by, sending a pulse to the counter. One turn of the meter dial equals one liter of water thru the pump.
I now have the battery box that electricmonk used, and installing it on my spare counter is on my to-do list. Someday.
Let us know where you buy the replacement counter, and the price. I paid about 50 euros from a place in Poland, and it would be interesting to know of other suppliers. I am not sure that Kubler is making these any more.
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Post by Stella Maris on Oct 24, 2014 11:18:55 GMT
Hi Rxc,
No problem on the reply. Thanks again for the info.
I got a price from Kubler Group in North Carolina USA for $75 US for the PN 6.130.012.853
This price includes $4 for a bezel as my original panel was destroyed also. I have replaced the whole electrical panel and will mount the new counter separately into the plywood backboard.
Actually I was thinking to mount it right in the galley !!
Do you just use one tank at a time and monitor the Li as that tank runs down. Some advice as to how you actually use it in practice would be great also.
Thanks again for your help, I'll send a pic when I have it up and running.
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Post by rxc on Oct 24, 2014 20:27:55 GMT
I have three tanks on my boat, so emptying one tank is not a serious problem. I mainly use the water meter to monitor the water maker output.
My normal water strategy is to try to keep the forward tank full at all times, and only use water from the large central tank and the stbd tank. I make water to the central tank, only, and have set up the intake manifold so that I can pump from any tank to any other tank. I keep track of water usage when we are in a situation where I need to make water, and will run the water maker whenever there is excess electricity available (i.e., motoring, running the genset, plugged into shorepower where the water is clean, lots of sun/wind). I will pump the water from the central tank to the stbd tank till I think it is full, and then make more, until I think the central tank is full.
I have a spreadsheet to keep track of it, and it seems to work pretty well - we had plenty of water across the Atlantic, and cruising in Scotland, and took showers every day or two, max.
I have had racers comment that with a water maker I can leave the tanks dry and pick up some speed, but I prefer to carry the extra water and feel comfortable that a failure of the watermaker will not cause a crisis. Also, my boat is a bit down by the stern, due to the arch and dinghy, and the genset, so keeping the fwd tank full balances it a bit. And I know that extra weight in the ends is not normally a good thing, but it is all I have.
We arrived in Bordeaux with a full tank of Stuart FL water, and then returned to Stuart 7 years later with a tankful of the finest Medoc water. Watermaker water tastes quite good, to me, my wife, and the cats, and we prefer it to chlorinated town water.
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Post by Stella Maris on Oct 28, 2014 12:57:50 GMT
Hi Rxc, thanks for the rundown on your water system. My boat also floats a little high in the bow, so keeping these tanks full does help. Me and the family have only just started using her for weekend trips but ultimately I bought her for more extended cruising trips to the Grenadines. I guess a water maker would be my next step. I'm glad I have so much real world experience right here so I will be looking at water maker posts when that time comes. Impressive that you crossed over at least twice? I know its off topic but I am always fascinated about anyone who has done this. I know hundreds of boats go every year. Did you spend 7 years in the Med. How was your wife during these trips. I would love to hear more. A distant dream of mine but it may never happen seeing how nervous the wife is when we are underway at night Also off topic but would love to hear about you cruising with your cats. I know they are a lot more boat friendly than dogs but any info about how you get them to do their business onboard would be good. My wife has a small pit bull that she loves like a daughter. We took her out last weekend and she was terrified at first. See was never comfortable and never did her business for 2 days ! Also her scrambling up and down the newly varnished companionway steps had me cringing
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Post by rxc on Oct 28, 2014 15:21:23 GMT
Looks like you bought a good boat to go cruising. Setting it up is part of the fun. On-going maintenance keeps the good time rolling.
I only did the west-east crossing, in 2007. We shipped the boat back last year. The cost is about the same, but there is a lot more adventure in doing the trip yourself. The issue is finding enough people with the skills and time available to do the crossing, who you know can get along with one another for 4 weeks in the middle of the ocean. That is the hard part.
My wife did not do the crossing with me. She was in our house in France, with the cats, watching us on the Spot reports. She did all the other cruises, up to scotland twice, down to Spain. We never got to the Med - for US flag boats it can be very difficult. The countries to the north want to tax us, while the countries to the south want to kill us. It was hard enough dealing with customs in the Atlantic, where everyone wanted to check our papers to see whether we owed tax money.
All-in-all, it was educational, amusing, and expensive. We ended up selling the house in France and moving back here after 7 years of fighting with the French bureaucracy (we won every time, but it gets tiring). You should do a LOT of research about the bureaucracy before bringing a US-flagged boat to the EU. The transit is only the start of the process.
The cats flew across the Atlantic, but did cruise with us. They really don't like open ocean sailing - the ICW is more their style - but they really loved the Scottish canals, where they got the chance to go ashore every day to hunt. We have a blog (not quite up-to-date) with the details. I would not want to do this with a dog - cats are much easier to deal with, and with a boat over 40ft, you can usually find someplace appropriate to keep their litter pan.
Wives, on the other hand, are all different, and all have their own issues. I don't know where you are, but you should do a few coastal overnights with your wife, just the two of you, in non-exciting conditions, and get her used to being on watch alone. After a few experiences like that she is more likely to feel confident about the boat. Don't take her out in a gale right away. Make sure that she understands that it is completely acceptable (in fact desireable) to wake you up if she feels uncertain about a situation. You might not get much sleep the first few times, but that is one way to find out if she will get comfortable.
Edit: I just noticed that you are in Trinidad. So you are already up wind of lots of fun sailing. With reasonable distances between islands. Very nice.
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Post by Stella Maris on Oct 30, 2014 18:59:32 GMT
Wow, interesting that all everyone wanted to know about was their taxes. Not even if it was your boat or not. I never really considered these aspects as so significant a cost. Very sobering.
Thanks for the perspective. I guess there can be many years of cruising right up and down the Caribbean.
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Karioca
New Member
Posts: 5
Jeanneau Model: Sun Odyssey 43
Yacht Name: Karioca
Home Port: Dover Delaware
Country: USA
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Post by Karioca on Nov 6, 2015 2:01:00 GMT
My SO 43 has no longer the sensor is someone kind to give me the reference of the sensor (and maybe the place where to buy it) Thank you and for info www.clrwtr.com has the Kubler counter 6.130.012.850 which replaces the old 1.85.012.830 for less than 50 US
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seaodyssey
New Member
Posts: 2
Jeanneau Model: 35' Sun Odyssey
Yacht Name: Silhouetic
Home Port: Melbourne
Country: Australia
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Post by seaodyssey on Nov 12, 2015 5:02:20 GMT
Hi shootash All the Jeanneau water meters I have seen (both LED and digital) use metal sensors that pass a current when submerged. Over time these are eroded and become OC. as a result the water meters stop registering. Your local Jeanneau dealer can order a new top for your tank and, if required, can have the factory send it to your home address. Minimum carriage is £15 so you should try to get any other parts you need in one delivery. I have found my sensors are simply SS bolts. Are these correct, as they do no appear to function with the panel?
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svmobert
Junior Member
Posts: 18
Country: USA
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Post by svmobert on Nov 12, 2015 5:41:29 GMT
The Kubler meter is a pulse counter. The sensor it uses is a magnetic reed sensor that sends a pulse every time the small dial spins one revolution on the mechanical water meter. I haven't found any specific sensor from Kubler but it would seem that probably any similar Magnetic Reed Sensor would likely work. It would need to be affixed with some sort of silicone or tape to the front of the water meter to pick up the dial's movement.
Look around for Magnetic Reed sensors that seem similar in size/construction to the ones in the pictures in this thread.
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Post by sitara on Nov 12, 2015 5:46:58 GMT
Hi Seaodyssey, The water gauge on my SO36i is based on stainless steel screws at different levels in the side of the water tanks. These are connected to the electronic gauge (made by Schrieber) on the electrical panel via a junction box and give full, 3/4, 1/2 , 1/4 and empty readings. Not a very accurate system but good enough for me so far. The only problem I can see is that a fault in the electrical system could let stray currents through to the bolts/screws and corrode them out. Not sure what the system is on the SO35 so hope this helps.
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seaodyssey
New Member
Posts: 2
Jeanneau Model: 35' Sun Odyssey
Yacht Name: Silhouetic
Home Port: Melbourne
Country: Australia
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Post by seaodyssey on Nov 14, 2015 9:12:12 GMT
Thanks sitara, You mention screws but mine are bolts with two nuts (one to fasten the wire). There's no corrotion. Submerging these wires in a cup of water makes no difference to the display.
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Post by saxofon on Nov 14, 2015 18:53:55 GMT
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allthewaythere
Junior Member
Sun Odyssey 45.2
Posts: 22
Jeanneau Model: 2000 Sun Odyssey 45.2
Yacht Name: All The Way There
Home Port: Detroit, Michigan
Country: USA
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Post by allthewaythere on Apr 20, 2016 15:05:27 GMT
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Post by vasko on Apr 20, 2016 17:03:09 GMT
I have a similar problem with my LCD water meter display on my SO 43DS in that this has become so faint that one struggles to get a reading. This LCD display on the 43DS does not show you how many litres of water you have left in the water tanks but how much water you have consumed so that when the display is approaching 550 litres you know its time to refill. Once refilled it is manually re-set to zero. There are no sensors in the tanks and consumption is first measured by an analogue water meter (similar to the old domestic ones) which then transfers the consumption to the above mentioned LCD display via a sensor stuck to the screen of analogue water meter (see picture attached). I was wondering whether any forum member has had any experience fixing/replacing this LCD display that can be shared. just get a lcd flow meter from ebay and install it youself - i have one installed to monitor the production of my desalinator and i'm happy with it - should be about £30 all included
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Post by boltnbrew on Apr 24, 2016 16:06:34 GMT
I just came across this thread and have the same meter display failure on our 43DS. I found a US source of the three- pin original battery for around three dollars plus shipping. I ordered today and will attempt to remove the solder points and replace with the new battery. Here is the source: www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=614-CR2477N(Yes, I know the battery ID in the search is not the same- but the CR 2477 NRH LF is on the same page)
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Post by boltnbrew on May 21, 2016 19:12:23 GMT
The battery arrived a couple days after I ordered- good service! It took about five minutes to open the panel and remove the counter. Removal of the old battery took five minutes using an ordinary soldering iron. Replacement of the new one took two minutes and, voila- the screen is working again! Total cost was less than ten dollars and total time was less than 20 minutes. On to the next project....
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