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Post by DUET on Jun 4, 2012 0:19:10 GMT
Is there an easy solution to sticking thru hulls, like then holding tanks? Both handles are stuck rendering the tanks unuseable in protected waters.
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Post by Tafika II on Jun 4, 2012 15:36:34 GMT
There are several older postings on this subject, but the short answer is have them replaced immediately
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Post by sitara on Jun 4, 2012 22:43:50 GMT
And once replaced open and close the seacocks whenever you are down on the boat. The holding tank seacock on my SO36i was very stiff when new but has eased up a bit with regular use, or else I have got used to it.
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Post by cpetku on Jun 17, 2012 15:19:41 GMT
Broke the handle (shaft) off the large holding tank ball valve this weekend (so40ds) when trying to loosen it after having the heads pumped out. I was hoping to avoid replacing this till the end of the season, but now I need to know will it fall apart and flood the boat or since the ball valve appears coroded shut, is it safe to wait four months till the boat is on the hard.
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Post by MalcolmP on Jun 17, 2012 16:46:19 GMT
Broke the handle (shaft) off the large holding tank ball valve this weekend (so40ds) when trying to loosen it after having the heads pumped out. I was hoping to avoid replacing this till the end of the season, but now I need to know will it fall apart and flood the boat or since the ball valve appears coroded shut, is it safe to wait four months till the boat is on the hard. As you cannot now use the valve, perhaps you could wrap a suitable length of thin rubber sheet several times around the whole assembly - inc tails and fix with several worm drive clips? Bit crude I admit but should stop any major leak occurring - how often can you check your boat whilst she is afloat? |
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Post by cpetku on Jun 17, 2012 17:47:09 GMT
Im at the marina on all weekends. I've also got a note into Jeanneau America to see if they have specifications for the valves so I can order a replacement. Not sure if the threads would be English or Metric. I don't see metric valves on the local internet suppliers websites...
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Post by gecko36i on Jun 18, 2012 5:36:43 GMT
Hi Cpetku
I would replace the hull thru, valve and the hose tail all with Bronze ones that are locally available. Stay away from the ones Jeanneau supply as they are brass and are failing a lot of articles have been in the mags of late with regards to the quality used.
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Post by cpetku on Jul 3, 2012 2:29:57 GMT
FYI, from Jeanneau America
There are 3 sizes of thruhulls used on the SO40DS; these all use British pipe thread:
1' ref 026068- engine intake, toilet water intake
1.5' ref 026069- sink drain, air conditioning
2' ref 026072- holding tank drains only
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Post by cpetku on Jul 9, 2012 2:39:18 GMT
One more question on this, has anyone seen a Jeanneay ball valve become leaky when closed? By this I mean sewage being dumped overboard even though the handle is 90 degrees to the flow of the valve? My forward head does not seem to be filling the holding tank. When I tap on the side of the tank it sounds empty even tough I know there has been several usages of the head. No Y valves and no sewage in the bilge so the only reasonable explanation is the ball valve is leaking. I assume the boat must be hauled out to replace these even when using an original Jeanneau valve (MS58 Markings indicate brass), unless there is a plug that can be inserted in the thru-hull externally in-situ. Even then, the link below shows this could be risky... www.pbase.com/mainecruising/seacock_primer |
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Post by j on Jul 9, 2012 7:17:07 GMT
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Post by shiook on Jul 9, 2012 22:57:23 GMT
Just this weekend, one month after the warrantee ran out, my head valve became very tight. I've read the warning posted on this topic last fall and did lubricate the valves in the fall and prior to launch. I also cycle them often. This is dissappointing. I'm still able to just cycle them but know it is only a matter of time now. I am hesitant to fully open it as it seems to stick both in the fully open and closed positions.
I noticed also the head dump valve seems to have been installed so the handle does not align well with the valve access door so I am not able to apply in-line force to cycle it. I will be sure to rotate the valve so the handle is appropriately aligned when I replace it this fall.
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Post by deepblue on Jul 17, 2012 9:36:36 GMT
Both 2"waste valves corroded shut. Yust replaced them with nylon valves. www.trudesignplastics.com/products/45-ball_valvesAlmost twice the cost of the metal version but also the last time I have to replace them. It was also difficult to get the old ones out due to the odd way the yard has made the access hatches. Had to cut the hoses since no proper sized tool can be used in the narrow space. This french design also prevents replacing the manual Jabsco heads with the new 'fits the same footprint"electrical version. Expect to replace all valves next winter, the engine coolingwater inlet also looks very iffy. |
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Post by cpetku on Apr 6, 2013 23:35:40 GMT
OK, the boat is still on the hard for three weeks, so its time to address this. the plan is just change the valves since on on fresh water and the thru hull appears to be good. its also located under the aft pad of the cradle so grinding off and replacement requires renting time on the travel-lift.
The hose is off so if I could get the valve to rotate on the thru hull this would be a 30 minute job. but there's the rub, its frozen on tight. I'm hesitant to use a torch inside the vanity but the only other option appears to be cut the thru hull flush with the valve and add a nipple on the other side to offset the elbow. What has worked for breaking the valve free on the thru hull for those of you that have worked in this area.
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debenboy
Full Member
Posts: 46
Country: UK
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Post by debenboy on Apr 8, 2013 10:10:49 GMT
I too have a very stiff ball-valve on the holding tank drain on my 2010 SO 36i. It has always been so.
Whilst my boat has just been hauled for the annual wash and brush up I have asked the yard to use their "bore-o- scope" to check the outer side of the ball valve for pitting.
HOWEVER, a little simple mathematics indicates that the problem with these 2" valves may be down to a simple lack of mechanical advantage or leverage.
The 1/2" engine cooling water valve has a 3"(approx) lever turning a valve with a bearing surface of X. and ME= 12:1
The holding tank exit valve has a lever aprrox 4" long turning a valve with a surface of approx 25X. and ME=4:1
Its litte wonder we have so much trouble with the big valves.
Add in the cramped awkward space in which the lever has to be used, plus the stupid orientation of the lever so you have to turn it rather than push/pulling it, and you have a recipe for difficulty.
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Post by cpetku on Apr 9, 2013 0:51:53 GMT
I have to disagree as I snapped the shaft off the 2" valve using the OEM lever. Thus a longer lever would be of no benefit and could cause catastrophic failures earlier.
I managed to get the valve off after I broke down and took a map gas torch into the head with me. I don't like open flames in proximity to fiberglass, but there was no other workable solution.
My hose had a plastic hose to pipe fitting which didn't survive removal from the hose.
Note that Jeanneau usa carries the 50mm (2") hose in stock. While not cheap, I was worried it might have to come from across the pond and expedited shipping would be equally painful under that circumstance.
I hope to have everything back together in 2 weeks to make my launch date. Then again, snow is predicted for the end of this week. Not boating weather yet...
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Post by windward54 on Apr 9, 2013 2:17:24 GMT
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Post by rene460 on Apr 9, 2013 11:38:54 GMT
Is there any chance that an electric paint stripping heat gun would do the job a bit more safely than an open flame torch in the confined spaces of the hull? Possibly in conjunction with some ice to cool the through hull fitting and thus increase the temperature difference? The Makita kit (and probably others) includes a nozzle to keep the hot air close around a pipe section when welding plastic pipes, but something could be made up with part of a tin can or perhaps Aluminium sheet to deflect the hot air around the valve.
Rene460
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Post by cpetku on Apr 10, 2013 1:04:53 GMT
I doubt electric would work in our current cold weather with such a large chunk of brass. The best solution I had in my plumbers toolkit was a fiberglass Matt used to prevent direct flame contact with the substrate.
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Post by tedp on Apr 10, 2013 19:13:13 GMT
I think the secret is to open and close the valves each time you arrive on board and leave for home. It may be that I don't have a problem being on fresh water, but the boat is now 9 years old and all is still working as it should.
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debenboy
Full Member
Posts: 46
Country: UK
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Post by debenboy on Apr 22, 2013 11:08:00 GMT
Well, the inspection of my holding tank exit ball valve revealed it to be "grey" with corrosion ( less than 3 years exposure), AND that there were signs of leakage in the boat, shown by a small accumulation of greenish coloured fluid adjacent the valve lock nut.
As the boat was about to be relaunched and the yard was experienced in these matters, I contracted the work to Foxs.
The methodology is to grind off the through hull with an angle grinder, and remove the hose from the tail, lifting away the whole assembly for disposal.
Then build up the valve/tail/elbow(s) assembly in the workshop, before offering it all up and winding on the new through hull from the outside, lastly tightening up the lock nut, and reinstalling (new) hose.
The new 90 deg elbow, and a 30 deg upper elbow above the valve, together with the through hull are all in bronze, and the valve is in DZR ( green handle).
The valve has been wound on so that the throw on the lever is now "pull/push" rather than "turn".
The difference is amazing! A simple two finger operation , rather than lying full length on the shower floor strainig every sinew.
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Post by sitara on Apr 22, 2013 21:53:32 GMT
The ball valve on the holding tank of my SO36i (2012) has varied between being very stiff to mildly stiff since new. The last couple of weeks has seen the valve become a lot easier to work. Maybe this is because winter is coming and things are a bit cooler? The valve gets used every time I am on the boat, usually twice a week. I did remove the handle and bend it a bit so there was a better angle through the opening which made things a bit easier. The angle of the valve in my boat is close to the ideal push/pull position.
Debenboy, thanks for the post on the methodology of getting through hull/valve assembly out. This will probably be a valuable bit of information someday. Did you get any pics? Maybe Malcolm would put it up in hints and tips.
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Post by cpetku on Apr 22, 2013 23:23:32 GMT
It took me a few scrapped knuckles to realize the only way to install new 2" waste hose is to put it in an enclosed area and heat it all up. At 40 degrees you can wrestle it almost into position with minor loss of skin. Heat it up to 90 or so and it becomes an easy task, but get it on quick before it cools down again...
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Post by Trevor on May 1, 2013 1:48:21 GMT
Hello,
When we had a SO36i the holding tank seacock was VERY hard to move. I used a cup of vegetable oil in the holding tank (poured in through the deck outlet) to lubricate the inner working from the inside and that seemed to release things to the point where it was much better.
Regards,
Trevor
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Post by shiook on May 9, 2013 17:52:21 GMT
Thank you everyone for the good input on changing out the stuck 2" waste valve. I followed debenboy's procedure to cut out the thru-hull fitting from the outside of the hull. With the white hose disconnected from the bottom of the waste tank, I was able to easily remove the whole valve assembly. I replaced with all new parts. The whole job took 1/2 hr to remove the thru-hull and 3/4 hr to install the new parts. The electric heat gun worked well on the white hose. All parts cost $283 delivered from Hamilton Marine, Portland Maine.
We are lucky to have this forum!
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Post by DUET on Mar 13, 2015 0:22:53 GMT
On my 50 DS, I just replaced the holding tank seacocks in the last blog manner with Groco bronze. I waited two years trying to both grease and work the valves, but with no success. Both were leaking and rusted all the moving parts. I talked with Jeanneau NA, but they had little interest. They did say some new models were using Merlin, but the rest still using brass. On a vessel of this price, it puzzles me why not bronze. All my previous US manufactured boats did.
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