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Post by rhb on Sept 3, 2010 12:34:10 GMT
Our new 42I Performance arrived today at the commissioning yard. As time allows I'll post some information about the commissioning process. I'll be doing most of the electronics and some of the electrical work myself so that will probably be where the majority of the info and observations are. When the boat arrived it was completely shrink wrapped, with only the wrapped up mast on top of the boat and the keel/rudder on their own cradle. The sequence of events that the shipwright followed today was: - Unload the keel with a forklift. Stand it up in a supporting cradle.
- Remove the mast and place it on some sawhorses
- Remove shrink wrap below the boot stripe
- Lift the boat off it's cradle, lower it (temporarily) onto the keel
- Insert keel bolts and backing plates
- Lift the boat with keel attached up into a higher cradle.
The keel will be lowered next week so sealant can be inserted, then the keel will be re-attached, filler will be allowed to partially cure, then the keel bolts will be torqued. Also next week I'll begin work on the mast, running cables, deciding if I need to get any additional bits from Selden, deciding whether to add a masthead tri-light, deciding where to put the antenna mounts (VHF and 3G). We'll also be adding an inner forestay fitting and halyard on the mast (for a storm jib and also as a place to fly a heavy weather jib or jib-top without removing the furling headsail from the forestay).
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Post by rhb on Sept 3, 2010 13:06:05 GMT
The electronics to be installed include: - Garmin GPSMap 750S plotter (at helm)
- 3 Raymarine ST-70 instruments (installed at factory)
- Raymarine STX autopilot (installed at factory)
- 1 Additional ST-70 at chart table
- Icom M504 VHF at chart table
- Icom command mic 3 at helm
- Codan 9390 HF radio at chart table
- Laptop at the chart table with MaxSea v12 and C-Map max charts
- 23" LCD monitor connected to the laptop via HDMI for watching DVD's
- Xintex LPG detector/shutoff
- 3M CO detector
- Ericsson W35 3G router
- USB over ethernet hub to connect instruments/plotter to the laptop
The Raymarine SeaTalkNG backbone will be connected directly to the NMEA2K backbone. The electrical levels are the same as are most of the PGN's.
Other items to be installed/added at commissioning time are: - A Webasto diesel heater (it get's cold here in the winter but it's still sailable)
- A Johnson pump deck wash system
- An inner forestay
- A 150 amp alternator and Balmar regulator
- an additional 110AH house battery
- A sine wave inverter
- A Rocna anchor / 50M of chain and 50M of 8-plait line
- Dodger and Bimini
Still to be determined - Either or both of: - Radar. If we do decide to install radar I'll probably return the Garmin 750S and get a 6012 instead for screen real-estate and also to gain the ability to overlay radar and map data.
- AIS transponder or receiver
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Post by rhb on Sept 4, 2010 6:55:08 GMT
After we ordered our boat, there was quite a bit of information about it that I wanted to get in advance of delivery. A number of questions were presented to the dealer or directly to Jeanneau. The response from Jeanneau in many cases was silence. The dealer tried very hard to help but couldn't answer many of the questions through his channels either. Some of the more important questions were answered by the Sun Odyssey product manager after I had (in desparation) tried to inquire at Jeanneau U.S. I posted some questions on this forum and several members were able to help but there were still quite a few open questions.
I figured that if I had a lot of questions then so would others, so I decided to document as much as possible here for possible future use by others.
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Post by rhb on Sept 8, 2010 7:47:54 GMT
Yesterday the bottom was sanded in preparation for barrier coat and antifoul. The shipwright also installed a through hull forward for the deck wash pump. On the 42I there's a great place under the forward end of the front v berth for the deck wash pump assembly.
Just aft of this forward most compartment is another compartment that is meant for a bow thruster (we don't have one). When the deck wash stuff was being installed I got a chance to see the equipment that supports the windlass. The installation looks great. The motor and gearbox are completely isolated from the anchor locker and the electrical gear is easy to get at and presumably easy to work on if something fails.
Today 2 coats of epoxy barrier coat were sprayed on, followed by a tie coat. Tomorrow 3 coats of anti-foul will go on. The first coat will be red, followed by two coats of blue, again all sprayed.
The reasoning is that when we haul out and see red on the bottom we know that we need to do some touch up.
I've been working on the mast. Just unwrapping it took 2-3 hours. Then I started cable pulling. There will be a 3G antenna, a VHF and a Glomex TV antenna at the masthead. Tomorrow this job will be finished, along with installation of the cable for the masthead wind gear.
Looking at the owners manual last night, I was moderately impressed. They are quite complete in some areas (system diagrams) and somewhat lacking in others (for example, there are no directions that I've found yet for the electrical panel, particularly the gauges switching).
Incidentally - is anyone reading these messages? Are they useful?
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Post by Zanshin on Sept 8, 2010 8:45:41 GMT
You've had 73 reads of this thread so far so somebody is reading this... thanks!
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Post by rhb on Sept 8, 2010 12:30:49 GMT
Thanks Zanchin - I'll keep going.
I pulled a cable into one of the two mast channels today. The channels are on the aft side of the mast (inside). They seem quite adequate in size but the particular cable I was pulling (LMR400 for the 3G phone/data system) is very stiff. The channel I was trying to use already had one of the factory installed power cables in it (to the masthead). This made it a very tight and dicey pull. It took two of us and some anxiety over the amount of pull required. I wasn't worried about the RF cable but I feared that we'd break the mouse line that was used for pulling. I eventually got some electricians cable pulling lube and that helped enough to get the job done. Tomorrow the other channel is meant to receiver the Raymarine masthead wind sensor cable, an RG6 coax for the TV antenna and (if there's room) an RG213 for the VHF. If there isn't room I'll revert to RG58/CU for the VHF - a bit more attentuation but there's only so much room.
I also pulled a new mouse line into the first channel and will do the same with the second, just in case.
Currently agonizing over the radar / no radar decision. If I do decide to spring for the $2k+ or so for radar I'll upgrade the currently planned GPSMap 750S to a GPSMAP 6008. The screen is slightly bigger but, more importantly, the 6008 allows radar/chart overlays and the 750S doesn't.
It seems that the factory forgot to include the masthead anchor light fixture and the steaming light fixture - at least we can't find them anywhere. 4 people have searched the boat so far with no luck.
What I may do is get a masthead tri-color/anchor light and a AquaSignal steaming light. I'll replace the bulb in the anchor portion of the masthead fixture with an L.E.D. bulb. I may also replace the tri-color if I can find one that will work - most LED nav light manufacturers recommend that you use Red LED's for red, green for green and white for white and I don't know yet whether I can buy a bulb that fits with all three colors.
More tomorrow.
Electrician is coming to rig the wind gear and 3 coats of antifoul is the plan, then rigger Monday and tuesday, into the water and mast stepping tuesday and then the real work starts :-)
Conspicuous in the work that will be done after launching is installation of the Webasto diesel fired heater, the monster big sine wave inverter, the 4th house battery, the bigger alternator and all the electronics.
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Post by rhb on Sept 8, 2010 12:35:30 GMT
I'd be happy to upload the schematics and diagrams from the owners manual. I'll scan them over the weekend.
Perhaps the moderator can advise me how best to upload them (and in what format)
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Post by offshore on Sept 9, 2010 0:26:07 GMT
We also are reading this with interest as we bought a stock boat and never saw the commisioning happen. Thanks
Barry
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Post by rhb on Sept 9, 2010 7:19:30 GMT
Things are moving along. 3 coats of bottom paint put on today, then all the protective wrapping from the waterline up removed.
Deck wash pump installation completed. The inlet through hull is only a metre or so from the bow.
Mast ready for the rigger, all cables pulled and terminated at the top.
As Jeanneau forgot to include mast lights, I've purchased a combination tri-light / anchor light and a combination steaming deck light (Forespar, it's much better than the cheapo plastic ones but not as expensive as the Selden light which is a piece of art (and priced accordingly).
Rigger coming Monday... will fit the standing rigging to the mast, run the halyards, attach brackets for antennas at the mast head and generally get ready.
Tuesday we plan to lift the boat into the water, then lift the mast into place.
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Post by rhb on Sept 10, 2010 4:30:51 GMT
Diesel heater installation is ongoing. Boat is ready to go in the water. I had a look at the cable arrangements around the mast base. There is a Selden mast step with a hose in it's center that extends through the deck and up about a foot into the mast. Any cables going below will have a drip loop set up using cable ties before they enter the tube to keep water to a minimum. Inside the boat is a very heavy compression post to take mast loads to the keel. This post is hollow and there are (approx) 1.25 inch - 30mm holes, 2 top and 2 bottom in the sides. The idea is that all wires leading down from the mast will be terminated inside the hull near the top of the compression tube. Wires that have to go to the switchpanel are already pulled by the factory through the tube to the top in readyness. There is also an RG58 coax lead from the switch panel/nav station area that the factory has put in place going to the top of the compression tube for a VHF radio antenna.
We will add some 75 ohm TV coax and a bit of very low loss coax for the 3G antenna leading from the nav station to the top of the tube.
Had my first brief glimpse of the performance sails this morning (in their bags). There isn't much to see as the have taffeta on both sides. More on these later.
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Post by rhb on Sept 11, 2010 8:51:17 GMT
There is a diagram of the Electronics systems that can be viewed at oceantracker.net/Asylum_Electronics_overview.gifThe boat was ordered with: 3 Raymarine ST-70 displays Depth, Speed, Water temp, Wind sensors Raymarine SPX autopilot. The following will be added soon: One Additional ST-70 display at the nav station Icom M504 VHF radio Codan 9390 HF/SSB radio Garmin chartplotter (750S or 6008) - tbd ActiSense NMEA2000 to USB gateway Asus UL50 laptop with MaxSea software (etc etc etc) Ericsson W35 3G Terminal Uniden WXI2077 phone and extension Welland USB over Ethernet hub 12 volt to xx volt DC to DC converters to power various bits NMEA 2000 really simplifies much of the integration and interconnection. There will still be a need to communicate using NMEA 0183 between the Icom VHF and the chartplotter to facilitate DSC functionality. The Actisense gateway puts NMEA2000 data onto the laptop via the wireless usb hub and W35 (operating as an ethernet switch). The net result is that the laptop will be wirelessly connected to the boat via the W35 and wireless USB hub - it will be possible to view any NMEA data on the laptop whether it is at the nav station or anywhere else. The Uniden cordless phones connected to the W35 will allow 3G voice coms from anywhere on the boat. They can also be used as an intercom between, for instance, the helm and belowdecks. This may sound quite complicated to some, but for a computer pro it's duck soup. I've had the system operating very well on the bench for extended periods with no problems. If the complex bit (USB over ethernet / ethernet via W35) fails, I can just plug the various USB bits and pieces directly into the laptop via a hardwired hub. I may not have explained well but the diagram, used with my clumsy words, should allow you to gain an understanding of the system.
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Post by Don Reaves on Sept 11, 2010 11:50:08 GMT
I really appreciate your attention to detail. I wish I had such a list regarding the commissioning of my 2004 SO 35. I wasn't around while it was going on, and of course the yard wasn't about to put as much effort into it as you have.
There is one thing you should check out after all your electrical systems are installed and the boat has been launched. The battery charger can generate a lot of noise. I don't know whether spending time at the dock is in your plan, but I've found that the FM or AM radio is nearly useless when the charger is turned on. You should check to see if it causes problems with your own systems, in particular the wireless and 3G components.
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Post by rhb on Sept 11, 2010 13:36:18 GMT
Thanks for the info Don - I'll check the charger out as soon as we get the grunt work done. If it is RF noisy I may fiddle with some filtering to see if I can suppress it.
All is going well so far, rigger is appearing Monday, plan is in the water and step the mast tuesday, then electrical / electronics etc.
Still haven't made decision about radar, which Garmin chart plotter and inverter sizing.
The co-captain wants to take some kitchen gadgets along, one of which consumes 1500 watts. Thats something like 120 amps @ 12 volts. Alternative to honking big 2kw inverter is a 2kw Honda "Quiet" generator. Other alternative is to talk her out of the proposition. If we do wind up manufacturing that magnitude of AC power I'm leaning toward the generator... mostly because if the novelty wears off and we don't use the appliance(s) then I can resell a Honda generator a lot better ($) than a 2kw inverter. Of course the problem with the generator is that it weighs 21 kg, has to be stored somewhere and uses gasoline.
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Post by rhb on Sept 11, 2010 13:49:47 GMT
Since Jeanneau forgot to include the anchor and steaming lights I've had to purchase some locally. I decided to get a combination anchor / tri-light for the masthead and a combination steaming / deck light.
The anchor / tri-light came with a 10 watt Bay 15D anchor bulb and a similar 25 watt bulb for the tri-light. The steaming / deck light came with a 10 watt bulb for the steaming light and a 25 watt halogen bulb for the deck light.
I've decided to replace all except the halogen deck light with LED bulbs. The steaming light was easy - I found a very bright warm white LED lamp for it.
The anchor / tri-light is a bit more difficult. For the anchor light I got another white LED bulb but had to radically disassemble the fixture to get it in. I bought a white LED to try in the Tri-light but as I expected (and as research suggested) it generates a light that doesn't work well with the red and green filters. I'll order a bulb from Doctor Led that is intended for use in tri-lights. It has a set of red a set of green and a set of white LED's and is designed for this use. Unfortunately it won't get here until after the mast is stepped so someone will have to go up to change it when it arrives.
I've used LED nav light bulbs extensively in the past. I can't see any problem so long as good quality bulbs are purchased. Our last boat with red / green / white LED's was usually visible from far away, beyond the two mile requirement.
One more thing to spend $$$ on, but it's worth it for the reduction in precious battery consumption, particularly the anchor and tri-light both of which will be used for many hours when the engine isn't running. The reason I converted the steaming light is simply to avoid having to climb the mast whenever a tungsten bulb decides to expire. The deck light (halogen) will be used infrequently and only for a few minutes at a time.
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Post by rene460 on Sept 12, 2010 11:12:14 GMT
Hi rhb,
I have the same problem as Don Reaves above - the AM/FM radio is quite useless when the battery charger is connected to shore power in on my SO 30i, both the built in radio supplied with the boat and a separate portable that we carry for HF weather reception. No problem with HF or mobile phone reception. I assume that it is the charger that Jeanneau are currently supplying. Worth checking out before you install if it is not too late. I have tried a ferrite choke around the lead to no effect (simply because I had one so it seemed worth a try). I also tried moving the powered antenna that was installed with the radio well away from the switch board, again no help despite experimenting with orientation. It does not affect the CD player facility of the AM/FM radio. Our portable receives the interference even when working on its internal batteries, though it can be avoided with a suitable but quite impractical aerial orientation, so it appears to be RF interference over AM and FM bands. Strange that HF not affected, though possibly because we have a back stay aerial connected for this. If you are able to solve the problem by filtering, or are able to recommend an alternative charger, I am sure that you will be helping many of us.
rene460
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Post by rhb on Sept 16, 2010 5:25:53 GMT
It's been a while since last post but a lot has happened. 2 days ago we launched the boat and stepped the mast. It went very well with no mishaps. Amazing what a good, knowledgeable shipwright, first class riggers and a good crane operator/rigger can do. Pictures are here picasaweb.google.com/100323990364308370330/Launching?authkey=Gv1sRgCJ7mu57EnqvQNw&feat=directlinkThe mast cabling was a tight squeeze, both in the mast channels and through the deck. Selden provides a blue corrugated tube to lead the cables down and it is just barely big enough for our (admittedly big) bunch of wires. We put an Australia II Americas cup commemorative medallion under the mast just in case.... After the mast was up and boom installed we discovered that the factory had forgotten to include the solid boom vang. When the dealer contacted the factory they were very cooperative and allowed him to source one locally - probably saved several weeks of freight time. The local installation of the Webasto diesel heater has taken the better part of 4-5 days. Longer than expected. Glad I'm not paying for it. The teak cockpit table was the only other problem noted so far - it looks like it sat outside in the weather for a long time and it has longitudinal cracks. The dealer agrees that it isn't good enough and is organising a replacement from the factoire. Next step will be inspection, trial sail, systems checkout and signoff of commissioning documents. Then on to electronics and electrical installation and canvas work (bimini, dodger, etc.) Also, at the same time, the shipwright will organise a deck cleat for the inner forestay and we'll get the sailmaker to measure for a heavy weather jib.
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Post by rhb on Sept 16, 2010 21:45:33 GMT
I'll be doing the electronics installation myself so I'll chronicle that - probably in a separate topic. Should be starting mid week.
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Post by rhb on Sept 22, 2010 21:51:36 GMT
Busy times and lots of work. The heater installation is finally complete. The next day we moved the boat from the commissioning yard to a local club marina that is closer to the sailmaker loft to make it easier for them as the dodger/bimini are completed. During the delivery we tested the heater as it was a dismal morning (about 10 degrees C and raining). All I can say about the heater is it works very well and I think we made the right decision since we intend to use the boat year round. The engine surprised me with it's smoothness and power. The noise level of the 54 HP Yanmar below is noticeably much quieter than the 29HP Yanmar on our former boat. Both the former and the new engine are well surrounded by sound proofing material but the new one is much easier to live with. I intend to add some rubber gap seal where the companionway ladder closes and I expect that to further quiet the engine. The combination of the 4JH4 engine and Max-Prop feathering propeller also impress with their power. At 2500 RPM we were loafing along at a 6.9 knots (instruments have not yet been calibrated so I can't vouch for the accuracy.) The feathering MaxProp shifts into reverse quite smoothly and quickly and stops the boat in a way that inspires confidence. The only new "issues" that have arisen are that the factory seems to have forgotten to send the solid boom vang and installed the wrong primary winches (the Performance version is meant to have Harken 50.2ST's and they installed 48ST's. I'm not unhappy because while the factory made a mistake, they have so far been quick to remedy their error. They authorised the dealer to get a Selden boom Vang locally to save time and the dealer assures us that the correct winches are on the way. We're now most of the way through the pre handover inspection. Other than the issues above and a few other more minor things I am happy to report that the fit and finish and the quality of construction are excellent. Nearly everything has exceeded my expectations. I am particularly impressed with the fact that Jeanneau have not scrimped or unwisely economized on any of the systems installations. Some examples: - The trigger shackles on the spin sheets are supplied by Wichard. They impress with their size and quality
- The Harken rigging components are very well selected. Their sizing is conservative and there is no question that expense was not spared.
- The Selden mast and boom are works or art. There are extra things that I didn't expect - like a T-Ball fitting near the masthead for an inner forestay. The mainsail included one of those very nifty Selden roller cars at each batten location. Surprisingly the sailmaker did not use a roller for the mainsail headboard - we'll add one after commissioning. The first time we raised the main the headboard had a tendency to snag a bit.
- The electrical system is full of bits and pieces from vendors like Blue Seas Systems - top notch stuff
- The French made performance version sails look great. The sailmaker frowned when he saw them and said (joking) that he was a bit disappointed as he probably wouldn't be able to sell us a new main for 8 years. We haven't had a chance to use them yet but I expect that we won't be disappointed.
The quality of the joinery inside is on the higher end of acceptable rather than spectacular. Everything fits well and works well. The new wood that they use - whatever it is - does not have quite the visual appeal of the best Teak but it will do. Some edges of plywood panels under the bunks and settees are unfinished and slightly rough. My wife is an excellent varnisher and she has volunteered to remedy this. There is a need for some of those little 4mm rubber bumpers here and there to suppress vibration noise. The floor panels have no mechanism to hold them down. As we live in an area with frequent rough weather we'll probably do something about that. The shipwright reports that he and his team have been impressed by the build quality. All in all - so far my overall impression is that the value proposition is great. Any compromises that I have seen so far have been cosmetic rather than structural or mechanical and even these compromises are relatively minor. More info to come next week as I wade through the electronics installation and we go for our first sail.
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Post by rhb on Sept 22, 2010 21:59:05 GMT
By the way - if anyone wants any question answered about our 42I performance I'll be happy to try to oblige. My personal expertise is in electrical and electronics systems so those answers may come more quickly but we'll try to find an answer to any other questions if possible. I know enough about rigging and boat construction to be dangerous and inquisitive so I may be able to find some answers in those areas too.
When we were making the decision about our purchase I would have really enjoyed having some other owner to seek info from.
Also - after we placed our order I spent many a night with a magnifying glass and brochures trying to figure out how things were set up and engineered so I could plan for fitting out - many of I disagreeumptions were incorrect. A magnifying glass and brochure are no match for a real boat.
I do plan to go over the boat with a camera and build a complete library of pictures of systems and hidden bits and post these on the web in the hope that they may assist someone in the future. Check back in a few weeks and I'll leave a link here to the photos.
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Post by rhb on Oct 13, 2010 11:31:11 GMT
Almost a month since the last report - time flies when you're working hard on getting a boat ready for extended trips around the northern fringes of the Southern Ocean.
Electronics installation is now mostly complete. Icom 504 VHF, 3 Raymarine ST-70's at helm stations plus one ST autopilot controller. 1 ST-70 at Nav station. Codan 9390 HF radio (to be connected to backstay).
Behind the electrical control panel is a painted ply mounting board that I added by Sikaflexing it to the hull. This board contains some DC to DC converters for ancillary equipment. 19vdc for laptop charging, 5vdc for a Welland USB over ethernet hub and a SiliconDust HDHomeRun dual tv tuner and 6vdc for a Uniden cordless phone base station.
There is a Logitech cordless Trackman trackball receiver behind the panel too. Trackballs work much better than mice when offshore in the rough stuff.
On the nav station panel is an Ericsson W35 3G mobile phone terminal that also functions as a broadband gateway and ethernet router. It is connected to a masthead antenna with some ultra low loss cable down the mast.
To be added early next week is an Actisense NGW-1 NMEA2000 Gateway to feed instrument and plotter data to the laptop.
Also to be added is a Scanstrut deckpod case for a Garmin GPSMap 750S plotter mounted at the helm.
All of the installed equipment works very well so far. The net result of all the complexity is that we will be able to use laptop charting anywhere on the boat without any wires. We'll also be able to view HD TV on the laptop via the HDHomeRun streaming TV over the boats wireless ethernet. These features have been tested and work well.
The Uniden cordless phone is waterproof. There are actually two of them on board and they can make / receive phone calls wirelessly via the Ericsson 3G terminal and they can also intercom between each other. So if one of us is at the helm and the other in bed and there is a need to communicate - no problem.
I've wired the system so that if all the extra-complex wireless and USB over ethernet stuff fails I can simply plug a USB cable into the laptop and be back in business receiving ships data.
(more to follow in next message).
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Post by rhb on Oct 13, 2010 11:54:17 GMT
Short aside re: using consumer electronics aboard. There are two objections that sometimes arise in a discussion of consumer (non-marine) electronics aboard a boat. Objection 1: "The harsh marine environment will soon render the equipment inoperable." I deal with this by giving equipment a thorough spray of a product called Corrosion-X. This is a liquid anti-corrosive that is used extensively in large and small aircraft, industrial environments and on boats and offshore installations. It evaporates leaving a thin anti-corrosive film on the eqquipment. It does not seem to have any problems when it is used within connectors or on sockets (like memory chip sockets on computers). I've been using various computers and other non-marine electronics for years with no corrosion problems - even on our last boat which was very wet below when racing offshore in the rough stuff. Objection 2: "The DC power on the boat is unregulated and voltage varies quite a bit. It can be spiky when alternators, fridge compressors, etc kick in" On our boats the voltage does fluctuate, usually between 12.2 (when discharged) and 14.2 volts (when charging). I deal with this by using DC to DC converters whenever there is any doubt about an items ability to withstand fluctuation. Companies like DigiKey can provide industrial grade converters and low prices ( onlinecatalog.digikey.com/WebProject.asp?CodeId=7.4.2.10&BookCode=dey09flx&PageLabel=2576&cshift_ck=1946983843cs1981786&client_id=5301#). The converters typicall accept a range of input voltage (often 9-30 volts) and output a stable pre-selected voltage all the time. This effectively isolates equipment from voltage variation and most voltage spikes and transients. What really does make a positive difference in reliability of consumer equipment (and any other electronic equipment including high end marine radios, plotters, radars, etc is the quality of the installation. It pays to spend the extra time to properly crimp connections, use reliable IP67 or higher grade connectors, use tinned marine wire and glue lined heatshrink tubing. It pays to carefully think through the installation so that it can be done in a controlled, neat and maintainable way. I sometimes find myself rushing through installation steps because I'm anxious to get something new into operation. I always try to go back and make sure that everything is done properly afterward if I've taken any shortcuts. The best way to make sure that electronics are very reliable is to invest the time in installation and do it right. I spent a number of years as a professional electronic tech so I'm not at all intimidated by wiring and installation mechanics. If you have the skills it's a fun thing to do that you can take pride in. If you don't have the skill you can still do the job yourself by careful use of online knowledge resources or a helpful skilled friend. If you don't have the skills or you want to spend your time doing something else then find the best marine electronics tech you can and treat him or her like a long lost family member! Some useful online resources: Maine Sail: marinehowto.com/Panbo: www.panbo.com/Blue Sea Systems: www.bluesea.com/
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Post by rhb on Oct 13, 2010 12:11:37 GMT
Non electronic stuff:
We're having the bow fitting modified. There are two objectives to this. First - we have a Rocna 20kg anchor and there isn't enough clearance to prevent it from hitting and damaging the bow without alteration. Also the metal thickness is a bit on the light side for our conditions (Tasmania in Australia). The last thing I want to worry about when the wind is gusting to 40-45 knots is whether our bow fitting is secure. Stainless doublers will be welded on along with stainless round stock on the edges. Also, a deck level fitting for the inner forestay that we're adding will be sturdily installed on the vertical center piece. This will then be tied to the heavy bit of stainless that Jeanneau supplies on the nose to make the bow an intimidating assembly.
If someone gets in our way on a start line I don't think our boat will come out second best :-)
The inner forestay will be jacketed Dynex Dux (9mm). Sails will hank on to it. We plan to have a small jib (bigger than a true storm jib but pretty small - to be used when rolling up the Genoa isn't enough reduction of sail.
We also have a very nice jib top reacher from our former boat that we will try out - nice for apparent wind angles from around 50-70 degrees.
I've added a LPG detector with the sensor in the bilge near the stove. I'll probably add another sensor back in the stern under the propane locker.
I've also put a carbon monoxide detector in the fwd stateroom and I've ordered another one for the aft berth area.
We've had the shipwright add an access port near the foot of the v-berth to access the through hull that serves the deckwash pump.
Tomorrow a small access hatch will be added to the floor just to port of the bottom of the companionway - to ease access to the engine water intake.
At some point in the near future I'll document everything with a camera and put some pix online in case anyone wants to see what we've done.
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Post by rhb on Oct 14, 2010 6:56:43 GMT
Today I made 2 fender boards from 2X6 douglas fir. I'm not much of a woodworker so I was pleased that they came out pretty well. Sorted out where and how to mount the HF radio antenna tuner. It's going on the inside of the aft bulkhead in the "shed" as we call it (the area to port of the aft cabin on a 2 cabin 42I). Big day tomorrow: The bow fitting goes on in the morning including the new fitting to attach the foot of the inner forestay and an anchor chain stopper. Then the boat is near enough to being finished with commissioning that we get to sail this weekend - weather gods cooperating. Work that remains to be done: - Connect up the bits of the HF radio and the KISS grounding system
- Install backstay insulators for HF radio
- Electrician to install inverter (I don't do 230volt ac wiring thank you)
- Sailmaker to add 3rd reef to main
- Sailmaker to measure and make heavy weather jib
- Sailmaker to add hanks to Jib top reacher assuming it will fit the inner forestay well
- Sailmaker to make jacklines
- Mount sheet bags
- Install remote speaker/microphone for Icom VHF in cockpit
- Install Garmin 750S plotter in Scanstrut housing at rear of cockpit table
- Change out nav station gooseneck light for one that uses LED's and produces red and white
- Add one or more red ceiling lights in cabin
- Add a couple of white and a couple of red lights in cockpit near the deck
- Whatever else we think of
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Post by rhb on Oct 14, 2010 7:00:19 GMT
Items for the future: - Replace alternator with external regulated higher capacity unit (120-150 amps)
- Radar? Still not sure we need it
- AIS transponder - as soon as I can bring myself to spend more money
- Replace fuel filter with Racor unless I find that I can easily source elements for the French one
- Get a second anchor, some chain and line
- Install a Weaver Snap David system for the dinghy
- Possibly replace the low end LG stereo with a Fusion 600
- Get and mount a BBQ
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Post by rhb on Oct 14, 2010 7:07:13 GMT
Summary of things that Jeanneau or the dealer has sorted out so far: - Wood cockpit table looked pretty bad - cracked, weathered, water stained. Dealer has discussed with factory and Jeanneau is sending a replacement table and leaves
- Steaming light and anchor light not shipped. I bought some locally and was reimbursed by the dealer
- Factory forgot to include a solid boom vang. Locally sourced one and installed it at factory expense
- Factory did not include a roller car for the main sail headboard. Sailmaker supplied one and dealer paid for it
- Dealer forgot to order Webasto heater. One was sourced in Australia and locally installed. Installation looks good and heater works fine but I'd rather have had it done at the factory - no big problem though.
- Factory sent Harken 48 winches instead of 50's. I wouldn't have worried except that the 50's are the new radial winches and the 48's are the older ones that are no longer in production. Dealer is arranging with factory to replace them at no cost. Shipright may have to fill and redrill mounting as I have a feeling the bolt pattern is different.
All in all, considering that a 42 foot boat with a lot of options is a big and complicated thing to project manage I'm pleased that all this is being or has been resolved with no pain. It's a credit to the dealer and to Jeanneau that they have been willing to fix these things without any petty arguing or resistance.
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